Keen to view all the delights of Sri Lanka’s “Cultural Triangle” we headed out to the magnificent “Lion Rock” or “Sigiriya” to give it it’s correct name. The mighty rock towers out of the humid jungles surrounding it and formal gardens at it’s base lead you gently and unsuspectingly towards the steady progression of increasingly tall steps that mark the long climb to the various platforms and finally the top of the rock itself.
Being in far less excellent condition (and of a greater advancing age) than many of my fellow contributors, notably Dr. Fumblefinger himself, I was already gasping for air and perspiring heavily by the time that I reached the seemingly ancient metal spiral staircase that is the only route to view the beautiful “Damsels of Sigiriya” which are painted high on the side of the Lion Rock. Grasping the rusting, loose and sometimes broken railings of the staircase I started my ascent. Looking firmly upwards and hardly ever down at the vertiginous drop below me I creaked my way upwards to the rock viewing gallery where the Damsels reside. Finally I reached the narrow ledge and the Damsels themselves! They are every bit as beautiful as I had imagined but alas I was only allowed a few moments contemplation before taking to that wretched staircase for the equally rickety descent. Ah the joys of travel!
Wikipedia adds a little scholarly comment on the Damsels themselves: “H.E.P. Bell believed that these paintings were of the ladies of Kasyapa’s court in a devotional procession to the shrine at Pidurangala. Professor Senarat Paranavitana suggested that they represented Lightning Princesses (vijju kumari) and cloud damsels (meghalata) Dr. Ananda Coomaraswamy identified them with apsaras in keeping with well established South Asian traditions. Professor Senaka Bandaranayake agrees with Coomaraswamy but adds that the celestial nymphs may have had more than one meaning and functioned as expressions of royal grandeur and status and as artistic evocations of courtly life.”
The lovely damsels of Sigiriya would be quite at home at Hugh Hefner’s PLayboy mansion! Amazingly well preserved given their 1500 year age.
Key to visiting, Mac, is to go very early before it gets too hot, or late in the afternoon as it starts cooling down. But a spry young dude like you should bound all the way to the top of Lion Rock like a springbok.
One of the most memorable times I’ve ever had in my travels was at the top of Sigiriya, right at the end of the day, when I was the only traveler up there. I just sat and took in the great views of the jungles, the foothills, and the incredible history around me.
More on Sigirya for the interested reader at this post.