The center of Avignon with the RhÔne and l’Île Piot in the distance.
The purpose of my stop in Avignon was a pause in a pleasant small city, between arriving in France and the week I planned to spend in Uzes. I recalled that several medieval French popes had set up shop in Avignon after the first was elected and refused to move to Rome. So that bit of contrary history sounded appealing enough to spend a couple of days wandering and waiting out my jet lag, until I’d board a bus for the ride into the countryside.
I’d originally booked a well-located Airbnb room in the center of the city. But after reading a subsequent review from a disgruntled guest, topped off by the host giving me bogus directions from Charles de Gaulle Airport, I reconsidered and booked a room in a modest hotel with glowing reviews, with the advantage of being very near all the transport options I’d be using.
Walk along Cours Jean JaurÈs, past Le Domus Cafe, to Rue Agricol Perdiguier…
To the modest faÇade hiding colorful 2 star HÔtel Le Colbert at Number 7.
HÔtel Le Colbert
A taste of the countryside, the patio at HÔtel Le Colbert.
Getting to Avignon after my overnight flight from the West Coast was simple – the fast train directly from CDG airport to Avignon TGV station, not far outside town, then a bus that stops at the main post office, just within the town walls. For anyone going on by local bus or train, it’s a short walk to the bus station, even shorter to the Avignon Centre train station. And most importantly that day, just 3 blocks to my hotel.
After settling in, the congenial hotel proprietor pointed me toward an intimate leafy square, or triangle to be precise, the Place des Corps Saints at the far end of the lane, and a charming bistro, Ginette et Marcel, that served food all day. Perfect for a leisurely early dinner, a glass of wine and, at that time of day, no pressure to hurry. Then an early bedtime and a long sleep in my quiet room on the flower-bedecked patio at the back of the hotel.
Next day was one of simply wandering, my favorite activity. My route took in Shakespeare Books and the sorts of residential neighborhoods that inspire one to think how nice it would be to live in Avignon. Next day was more purposeful, with a visit to the imposing Popes’ Palace. Begun in 1335 and completed in just 20 years, the massive fortress rises from natural stone foundations and is the largest Gothic building in all of Europe.
The Palais des Papes
I approached the building from the rear, following passages that brought me around to the entrance and large square on the front. The building is so massive, it’s difficult to appreciate from photos, but walking around the base and looking up, one can begin to glimpse its overwhelming size. Then, after climbing up within and looking down on the square, the impression is complete, power wrought in stone.
The view over Avignon from the Palais des Papes.
Wikipedia’s history of the Palais des Papes.
On my third full day in France, I made my way to the nearby Avignon Gare RoutiÈre
(bus station) for the 45 minute ride past the Pont du Gard to UzÈs.
Join me next Wednesday for ‘A Week in UzÈs’.
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