Gumbo was exploring the fossil-rich rocks of the famous Burgess Shale, this deposit being in Stanley Glacier basin of Kootenay National Park, British Columbia. Congratulations to ace travel detectives, George G and PortMoresby, who successfully solved this difficult puzzle. Also to my colleague Dr Eric Larsen (via personal email) who also recognized where we were and what we were doing.
A Brief History of the Burgess Shale
One of the world’s most famous fossil sites is Canada’s Burgess Shale, which contains a large assortment of ancient and amazingly well-preserved (often soft-bodied) marine fossils Originally discovered at high altitude in the mountains of British Columbia’s Yoho National Park in 1909, the Burgess Shale was one of the important reasons for the designation of the region as a UNESCO World Heritage site. There are two Burgess Shale sites in Yoho you can visit, both long hikes with significant altitude gain. One is to Mount Stephen and the other to Walcott Quarry.
Recently a sister site has been discovered further south in Kootenay National Park, about 25 miles (40 km) south of the original site. That find was discovered in 2012 and is providing extremely rich fossil deposits; it may prove even more informative than the original sites in Yoho. Already thousands of museum quality specimens have been found, representing 55 taxa many of which are new to science. Most are of small invertebrates, many with no exoskeleton, although the oldest described vertebrate fossil in the world was found right here.
Alberta has the richest deposits of Jurassic era dinosaur fossils in the world (circa 200 million years ago), but those found in the Burgess Shale are older and rarer. They are thought to date back about 500 million years and are perhaps some of the earliest complex life forms on Earth. Many are small and quite bizarre looking, but the environment of the shale formation helped preserve them. Here are some examples, courtesy of Parks Canada….
To see more of these odd-looking marine creatures, I recommend a look at this gallery. If you would like to learn more about the Burgess Shale, I’d suggest visiting the Royal Ontario Museum’s website.
The Hike to the Stanley Glacier Basin
All of the Burgess Shale fossil discovery trips in the Rocky Mountains are hosted by Parks Canada and it is mandatory that you have a park warden or official geologist accompany you. This is to provide expert interpretation of the site, as well as to keep precise location of the key finds a secret to help preserve the fossil deposits from theft (it is illegal to do any collecting of these fossils).
I was one of 10 people on an August weekend morning to take the tour of the Burgess Shale deposits in the Stanley Glacier basin. Stanley Glacier has long been one of my favorite hikes in the Rockies, but to learn about the fossils was something I was quite excited about. The hike is about three miles each way, with an altitude gain of 1100 ft (depending on how close to the Glacier you go), which my wobbly knees and I can still manage. You can learn more about the hike at this link.
In addition to the park warden, we were greeted by a misty often rainy morning. While I prefer dry sunny days, the mist was lovely and added a lot of beauty to the already magnificent landscape.
(Views towards Marble Canyon from the Stanley Glacier Trail)
(Our group makes its way up the Stanley Glacier trail)
The Stanley Glacier is a hanging glacier in a hanging valley, the valley having been carved during the last great Ice Age. The layer containing the actual Burgess Shale is high on the cliff-side, in a dark band, and itself is not accessible without climbing gear and permits. But because of the glacier’s activity, it’s fairly easy to find fossils in the moraine field of the glacier.
For example, here are some trilobites and parts of trilobites…
as well as arthropoda…
After a period of exploration, the warden opened a locked chest and showed us some of the rare examples of the fossils from the site….
As late afternoon arrived, the sky cleared considerably and we were rewarded with some nice views of the Stanley Glacier as we returned to the trail-head.
If you have an interest in geology or natural discovery in general, the hike is highly recommended. If you want a greater physical challenge, then I’d recommend the hikes to the fossil beds in Yoho National Park.
The Burgess Shale is one of the most significant fossil finds on earth. These exquisite fossils found in Yoho and Kootenay national parks are changing our understanding of evolution itself. Parks Canada protects these internationally significant treasures. We also make it possible for people from around the world to visit in person and explore the origins of life on earth.
The original Canadian Rocky mountains Burgess Shale deposits were discovered in Yoho National Park, namely at the Walcott Quarry and Mt. Stephen.
oin a Parks Canada Heritage Interpreter for a fun guided hike to the first Kootenay National Park Burgess Shale fossil site. This family-oriented hike provides an excellent introduction to the Burgess Shale on a relatively easy trail. Beginning in an expansive fire swept forest with lodgepole pines and a profusion of wildflowers, this hike crosses a turquoise river, passes by waterfalls and gives close-up views of the Stanley Glacier. Hidden at the base of Mount Stanley are trilobites, hyolithids, brachiopods, sponges and algaes from the Eldon formation. The lock box is chock full of real Burgess Shale fossils for you to hold. You’ll even see the “Stan animal,” a 505 million year old predator recently discovered here!
Note: This hike does not go to the recently excavated Marble Canyon quarry site and access to the Burgess Shale area in Kootenay is not restricted to participants on approved guided hikes.
Difficulty | Distance (round-trip) | Elevation Gain | Duration |
moderate | 10 km (6.3 miles) | 450 metres (1,476 feet) | 7.5 hours 8 a.m. to ~3:30 p.m. |
Is this hike right for me?
The Stanley Glacier hike is moderate in difficulty. The first 4 km (2.4 miles) of the trail is excellent and well maintained. The final sections to the fossil site include 800 m (874 yards) of rough trail and 200 metres (218 yards) of walking on rough rocks. It is equivalent to climbing all the stairs up and down again in a 110 story building over 10 km (6.3 mile) in distance.
Ensure you are equipped for all weather conditions, including wind, heavy rains and snow.
Children under eight not recommended. Hike not suitable for strollers or child carrying-backpacks.
We want you to enjoy your day. If you are unsure if this hike is right for you, please call us to discuss. For safety reasons, we reserve the right to decline service to clients who may be unprepared to complete the hike safely. No refunds.