May 20, 2017: Road to Purgatory, Naples

Wandering in the streets of Naples’ historic center, we constantly found ourselves drawn to the unusual. And that includes a street (above) that is the Alley of the Fig Tree of Purgatory. 

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The street, taken at a longer view (above) seems quiet now, as much of the quarter is given over to boutique retailers and to visitors, but it’s not hard to imagine the street with people leaning out of windows, and even more laundry hanging than there is today…perhaps in place of these plants.

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At one end of Fico al Purgatorio, near Via dei Tribunali, we encountered this statue of Pulcinella, a common figure in Neapolitan puppet shows and history. His name is derived from words connected to ‘chicken’ and ‘rooster.’ The character is the true ‘man of the people,’ expressing the views of the masses, often in crude fashion. 

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Note the shiny nose: Depending on who you listen to, rubbing the nose either brings good luck…or ensures you’ll “get lucky” tonight.

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