Anyone who’s looked at my travel pictures over the years will have noticed a lot of pictures of bread and bakeries. I’ve been accused of being mad about bread, and I don’t deny it. But I’ve been trumped by Alex Croquet, a bread artisan in Lille, France, who even calls his store Mad About Bread: Fou de Pain.
Lille wasn’t on our original day-trip schedule during a month in France, but when we found ourselves there, my wife immediately began researching food, and told me she had found my dream…and we followed it.
I should probably start with a reminder that ‘baguette’ and ‘French bread’ aren’t the same thing; it’s only one kind of French bread, and a relative newcomer at that. French breads can be long, they can be round, square, light, heavy, fine-crumbed or coarse, but generally with a rich and yeasty flavor that comes from simple ingredients.
An assortment of loaves at Au Pain d’Antan, in Paris
Some of the breads even have legal restrictions on what can go into them. The ‘baguette tradition,’ for instance, can contain only flour, water, yeast and salt. The category was created to set it apart from factory-made breads that had additives to extend shelf life. A ‘baguette tradition’ is always made on-premises.
At Alex Croquet, we found such an assortment of baguettes and other breads and lovely aromas that it was breathtaking. Intoxicating. Habit forming. We walked out with two pastries and two breads; within a couple of hours we had returned for more bread. Not all eaten on the spot; some was carried home to Paris.
Not all the breads are as simple as a ‘baguette tradition’ of course. There are breads with sweet glazes. Breads with olives or prosciutto included. Whole-grain breads (pain complet), both wheat and other grains, such as rye. Sourdough (pain au levain) and breads, often multi-grain, with seeds in and on (pain aux cereales).
Although there are breads that are soft (but not squishy) to the feel, I love the tough and crunchy crust of many of the best—although the devotion is not always returned. I got a significant cut to my finger from the sharp edge of a wonderfully crusty bread from Croquet. Worth it, though!
Of course, while Alex Croquet’s store was a wonderful experience and now memory, it’s not unique. While it’s possible to read year after year about the loss of genuine local bakeries in France, and especially in small towns, in Paris, Strasbourg and other cities, they seem still thick on the ground, fortunately. The Clignancourt neighborhood in Paris, where we usually rent, has several outstanding ones, including Pain d’Antan, featured here earlier.
And, of course, there are many more specialties and regional variations to think about, such as this collection of spice and gingerbreads at a market in Strasbourg, and the regionally popular bread pretzels. There are also regional variations of many of the breads, including baguettes. Alex Croquet offers a ‘baguette lilloise,’ for example.
And some newcomers: At Boulangerie Rose, in Vernon, you can buy black baguettes. Charcoal black on the outside, charcoal black on the inside. And charcoal is the reason; they’re made with activated charcoal, which is said to have health benefits. I won’t argue that, but it was a delicious crusty baguette—and got quite a few stares as I carried it. Makes interesting-looking sandwiches if you’ve a mind for that!
In a way, it’s appropriate for new ideas about baguettes, since, as I mentioned above, they’re pretty much a new idea themselves. Long breads have a long history in France, but what makes a baguette a baguette is the use of a steam-infused oven.
The oven, often brick or stone-lined is heated to about 400° and then, while the bread is baking, steam is infused into the oven. It allows the crust to expand and then settle, and melts the dextrose in the wheat on the surface to form the glazed appearance. It also makes the baking quite fast.
The steam oven was introduced to France in the 1830’s by August Zang, an Austrian officer in exile who opened a Viennese bakery and introduced such Viennese delights as the Kaiser roll and the kipfel (which the French renamed ‘croissant.’ Zang returned to Austria and made a fortune in publishing and banking, but the steam process remained.
In 1920, a French law prohibited bakers from working between 10 pm and 4 am, which meant that there wasn’t time to make more traditional breads in time for breakfast. Within a short time, the steam oven and what only then began to be called a baguette became the norm—and to most of the world, the only French bread.
While staying in St Hilaire on the west coast of France the kids would walk with me to buy hot bread in the afternoon. We had instructions to only buy 1 French Stick of bread. We always bought 2. And a 25c bottle of white wine in a recycled bottle – with cork. When we arrived back at our rental Cottage we were one loaf down. We’d eaten one on the walk back home while it was hot. Locally made Duck Pate, Cheese and Salad would all help demolish the next loaf. And the wine was enjoyed while listening to the kids snoring .
Garry, you remind me of a summer in Tuscany, when our youngest (now 34) was 17. We discovered a wonderful bread in the bakery at Camucia, near Cortona. It was described as Etruscan bread; don’t know if truly that old, but made with faro rather than wheat.
Two loaves became the rule for us (two couples, each with a teen) because otherwise not enough made it back to the house. And on the last day, when the two teens and I made the run…well, the rest got little more than crumbs from the two loaves.
DrFumblefinger, I’m with you on rye and other darker breads; my ‘home bread’ of choice is New York Jewish rye with caraway (sadly hard to find good ones these days). But France makes some great rye breads also, and a good variety of breads made with other whole grains as well. Some of my favorites in France!
I don’t think anyone does the varieties of white bread better than the French. Their bread is simply delicious. But I’m also a fan of the heartier rye breads of Eastern Europe. With a little butter and local cheese and sausage, they’re hard to beat.
” With a little butter ” Do Americans have a phobia with Butter ?
On my last visit to the USA I was served with a selection of breads and rolls of various shapes and colours – in a fine restaurant – to accompany our meal.
I thumbed through the bowl of spreads in their neat little packs next to the bread.
They all appeared to be a choice of extruded polymers with no dairy content.
I called the waitress “Do you have any Butter ?”
People on nearby tables spun in their seats to look at me. And one shouted :
“Butter ? are you trying to kill yourself ?”
Thanks Paul. Good Butter – like a fine wine – is one of those pleasures in life that we indulge ourselves in occasionally. Like fine dining is a rare treat we enjoy but – please – don’t tell me the Restaurant is only for healthy eaters.
I remember one Lady asking the waiter in Cuba “Do you do Gluten Free meals ?”
“We do beans, rice and chicken – with a variety of sauces – you choose”
Viva la difference !
Garry, I have to apologize. We are a people whose annual butter consumption is about 6 lbs. per person, while in France it’s 18 lbs. EU average is 9 lbs., but I don’t know how Brexit will affect that.
Too many of us have been convinced that butter is bad…and eben the discovery that margarine is all transfat has not undone the damage.
The only acceptable substitutes are olive oil, chicken fat and good lard, IMO.
And by the way, one of the best-ever Sunday morning treats is a slice of good caraway rye, spread with salt butter and topped with crisp fresh radish slices.