The Alfama might be Lisbon’s most famous neighborhood; certainly it is one of the oldest, and its winding narrow streets, barely passable to traffic and a few short trams, are a prime spot for visitors.
But it’s also a paradox. It dates to the days of Islamic rule of the Iberian Peninsula (almost everything in Portugal beginning with ‘al’ is of Arabic origin; it simply means ‘the.’). And while it has hints of that distant past (the arch below was once a gate through the Moorish city wall), it’s also a living residential quarter, and packed to the gills; the forest of antennas above is a hint, although mostly replaced by cable or dish.
It’s not especially a gentrified neighborhood, although there are artsy corners here and there; in part that’s due to long-standing rent control. Rents were kept at 1974 levels until 2014, and many tenants had lifetime leases. With low wages and a then-stagnant economy, no one wanted to move out of the Alfama, or anywhere else. Change is only now starting to happen, and it’s not all good.
But neither is it a completely-impoverished neighborhood, and a walk around it also brings enclaves like the one above into view. And because the entire neighborhood sits atop some of the city’s higher hills, there are often wonderful views down to the river.
But, between the views and the area below, you can never forget how steep Lisbon is, and how many streets are actually stairs. This one is directly behind the Cathedral; it’s popular name translates as ‘break your back alley.’
