My first in-person introduction to the treasures found in Tutankhamun’s Valley of the Kings tomb by Howard Carter in 1923 was at San Francisco’s de Young Museum in 1979. It was the museum’s first real blockbuster exhibition and at the time, after years of wishing I could visit them in Egypt, I was thrilled to have the remarkable collection shown so close to home.
Last year, while planning my long-anticipated trip to Egypt, knowing I’d be able to see the beautiful objects again, I was doubly excited to discover that the house lived in by Howard Carter during the time he’d worked in the Theban necropolis was open to the public. And some of you know how I feel about houses. I made it one of 3 locations I’d visit during my exploration of Luxor’s West Bank, conveniently located very near the other top-of-my-list site, Queen Hatshepsut’s mortuary temple.
As my guide, Radwan, and I approached the house, he explained to me that photos weren’t allowed inside. Oh no! But, he added, he thought with baksheesh offered to the caretaker for special rules to apply, it might be possible. Fifty Egyptian pounds, he added, about US$3, would be a suitable contribution. Saved!
Howard Carter’s Office
Below, the dining room with documents under the table glass.
Howard Carter’s Bedroom
Lord Carnarvon’s Bedroom
Howard Carter, right, with Lord Carnarvon who financed the expedition
that resulted in the 1923 discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb.
The soft-spoken caretaker kept watch as I roamed the charming building at my leisure with my camera, taking my time to get them in focus in the low light. Leaving through the kitchen door, we found a family enjoying the seating area in the garden. I continued around to the side of the property facing the road with its sweeping lawn and attractive plantings before heading for the parking area.
Arriving at the car, I noticed the license plates for the first time. Though I didn’t know what the Arabic characters said, in English they formed the word “love”. I laughed and tried to explain it my companions. First Radwan understood and he explained to Ramadan. I think they enjoyed it as much as I did and Radwan found a piece of paper on which he wrote the Arabic word for love and the translation of what looked like love to me, 1574.
Love ???
The 3 locations I’d chosen for a day on the West Bank were good personal choices. I was happy that I’d seen what I did, rather than be part of a canned tour, “the best of…”. For those who make their way to Luxor, I recommend giving the area more time than is offered on general interest tours, and to do one’s homework in advance to discover the particular places that will suit one’s own inclinations. I think Egypt is a place where a bit of effort in that regard will particularly pay off.
All episodes of ‘PortMoresby in Egypt’ can be found here.
And others of PortMoresby’s contributions here.
