Where Gumbo Was #329
In the U.S., we’ve often heard the Smithsonian called “the Nation’s attic” because of the diverse aspects of American life it covers, and the sometimes surprising objects it preserves.
Scotland’s National Museum, in Edinburgh, is like that except that it hasn’t as many buildings to spread the collection over, or to specialize, so the effect of seeing a surprising bit of this just next to a differently surprising bit of something else altogether is heightened especially since the building’s grand halls and open galleries make so much visible at a time.
You can look down to the lower floor for an exquisite Victorian garden fixture, and then look to the right at pickled poisonous snakes. It’s not that the collection isn’t laid out logically, it’s that so much of the space is shared—which makes it an exciting place.
Some of the most interesting parts for me were the exhibits of Scottish design in the late 19th century and on into Art Nouveau, including a lot of pottery and tile work. Among the ceramic works, two names stood out for me, William de Morgan, some of whose work is just above. His work often combines Middle Eastern themes with more traditional images.
This set of panels, showing the Seven Ages of Man, as described by Shakespeare in ‘As You Like It,’ are by Henry Stacy Marks, made in 1874.
Much of this work reflects a 19th-century application of new technology to art forms, making more goods available to middle-class buyers. That tendency shows in the work of perhaps Scotland’s most famous designer, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, well-represented in his home-town museum.
As the exhibit makes clear, Mackintosh was not a solo act; much of his work was a collaboration with his wife, Margaret McDonad Mackintosh.
Among the ones seen in the National Museum are celluloid and Bakelite, perhaps familiar to some older readers as the material often used for radio cabinets, stove knobs and more, or for whimsical decorative objects such as those seen here.
But interior decor, of course, is not the only technology focus in the museum. There are extensive exhibits devoted to transportation and its role in changing life in Scotland—both in more recent years of aviation, and earlier years of steam railroads.
Two industries that heavily shaped Scotland up through the 19th century were coal and fiber. Scottish engineers, including James Watt, were critical in developing the machinery that made producing both possible, including the transition from hand-weaving to power looms.
Along with the looms, the museum features displays of their products, including the sample books that tailors all over the world used to sell Scottish woolens.
There are many interactive exhibits intended to attract children’s interests, although sometimes just the chance to climb through something is enough.
Speaking of climbing, a climb to the museum’s roof is rewarding; there are views of Edinburgh and beyond in every direction, and an opportunity to puzzle over the Hutton Roof, four large blocks of sandstone, remains of an ancient desert, placed to honor an Edinburgh geologist.
In theory, they are supposed to draw your gaze through the hole and into the idea of seeing back in time. In reality, they serve a quite different purpose as a lunchtime amenity.
In a distinctly more recent exhibit, there is a copper cavity from the CERN Large Hadron Collider in Switzerland. It makes a dramatic image, and was the set-up clue for this week’s Where in the World puzzle. Congratulations to Professor Abe and George G who both started out guessing CERN and then found the right spot! GarryRF, PortMoresby and Roderick Simpson also identified the Museum.
And, just a few more images.
I enjoyed your visit – Thanks Paul for the insight.