Basel has so many interesting buildings, squares and churches that it’s only too easy to forget that it owes much of its history and influence to its position near the head of navigation on the Rhine.
But Baselers don’t forget their river easily; they cross it frequently on their five bridges and four ferries, they flock to its banks in warm weather, and thousands regularly swim in it, toting their clothes and possessions in a waterproof inflated bag called a ‘wickelfisch.’
Photo: LifeInBasel.com
Most of the in-the-water action starts on the eastern side of the river, known as Kleinbasel, or Little Basel. Once separate from Grossbasel, they’ve been a single city for over 600 years, but the wealthier Grossbasel got the hills and Kleinbasel the low shoreline that’s just right for riverside promenades and getting wet. The road behind the convenient steps is lined with small cafes.
But even for those who don’t want to go into the water, Basel offers an up-close and personal opportunity with its four ancient ‘reaction ferries.’ Well, not so ancient. The principle has been in use since the Middle Ages, but Basel only took up the idea in 1854 when the city was growing and it only had one bridge.
The ferries, operated by independent boatmen these days, have no motor and no sails. They are essentially pushed across the river by the current, which is quite swift. Left to its own devices, the river would actually send the ferries downstream, past the city and off to the North Sea.
But the ferries are attached by long cables to a cable that crosses the river; the boat’s cable slides along the guide cable so that it can’t float far from its intended course; the boatman uses the tiller to keep the nose pointed into the current, thereby controlling the ferry’s direction, east or west.
As popular as they obviously are with tourists, they are usually full of Baselers as well, since they connect to the waterside paths and roads on both sides. Only one, below the cathedral, has a steep climb from the landing.
The fireboat…
While Kleinbasel has the easiest way to get up close with the river, the other bank, once past the busiest center near the Middle Bridge, has pleasant walkways and parklands, too. Past the residential stretches there are popular cycle paths and refreshment stands.
Near the St Johann bridge, many of the river cruises that begin or end in Basel find their anchorages.
Besides the cruisers and the ferries, there is plenty of marine traffic, ranging from large freight carriers to a variety of smaller vessels.
The most significant bridge is the pseudo-ancient Middle Bridge, built in 1905 but keeping most of the design of the 700-year-old bridge it replaced with this all-stone version. Because it was no longer the only bridge, and sat between two others, it got its new name. The original bridge was the first-ever bridge to cross the Rhine.
The 1905 project actually involved building two bridges: because the city couldn’t be without a bridge during construction, a temporary wooden bridge was put up a few yards away, and then removed after the new one opened.
The small chapel that can be seen on the left end of the image above was rebuilt from the original; in the Middle Ages, it was the place where death sentences were pronounced, and prisoners, especially those accused of witchcraft, executed by drowning. Ironically, the ornamental railings at its door have become a prime spot for ‘love locks.’
Near the Middle Bridge, the famed Trois Rois Hotel faces away from the river, effectively hiding the river…except from those who discover the small passage near the end of the bridge that leads to this riverside path, with access to the hotel and several restaurants.
And, of course, the edges of the river, a few steps down from the path, are a good spot to find some of Basel’s avian inhabitants….
