Where Gumbo Was (#404)
Gumbo was visiting the town of Chipping Campden in a region many consider to be England’s most beautiful, the Cotswolds. Congratulations to George G, Professor Abe, PortMoresby and Roderick Simpson, who all recognized where Gumbo was!
Chipping Campden is one of the best preserved towns in the Cotswold, and is a pleasure to explore on foot. The name is derived as follows: “Chipping” means market place; “Campden” is a valley with fields. It’s not a very large community so you can explore a good portion of the town with a half day’s visit, but leave yourself sometime to linger and enjoy the place.
(Milk is still delivered in bottles to your doorstep in Chipping Campden)
The town is old, its buildings are lovely and harmonize unusually well. Most are made of a locally quaried honey-colored limestone (“Cotswolds stone”). Some date back to the 14th century although most are from the 17th century. They were built during an affluent era when the high quality wool from the region was famous around Europe and commanded top prices. The area declined during the 18th and 19th centuries as wool prices plunged.
In the center of town on historic High Street is famous Market Hall, built in 1627 by Sir Baptist Hicks to provide shelter for traders selling perishables (cheese, butter, meat) or precious items (like silk). Sir Baptist Hicks was a wealthy silk merchant and monuments to his family are found around town.
(Chipping Campden’s Market Hall)
St James’ Church, the town’s most visible landmark, was built around 500 years ago with money from the profitable medieval wool trade. The church has a 120 ft (36 m) tower and a spacious interior. More on this church in a future post.
(St. James Church, Chipping Campden)
Sir Baptist Hicks built a splendid new house (Campden House) in the early 17th century adjoining the church. Sadly, shortly after its completion, it burned to the ground and little remains of it, the most impressive feature this entry gate.
(Grounds and remains of Campden House)
There are many restaurants, pubs, hotels and other accomodations you can enjoy in the town.
There are a number of notable gardens nearby, including Hidcote Manor Garden and Kiftsgate, which have been previously described and illustrated by PortMoresby.
There are a number of trails and walks through the beautiful hills in the region, including the well-known 102 mile Cotswold Way, which starts in Chipping Campden and ends in Bath.
Chipping Campden has important links with the Arts and Crafts movement. C.R. Ashbee set up his Guild of Handicrafts here in 1902, important to the revitalization of the economically depressed town. The movement focused on handmade objects, rather than factory made items. The Guild specialised in metalworking, jewellery, hand-wrought copper and iron, and furniture-making. His workshop in the old silk mill in Sheep Street is now a small museum.
Finally a few more scenes from the center of the town on High Street:
