Antigua Guatemala: the Old Capital

Not to be confused with the Caribbean island nation of similar name, Antigua Guatemala is a must-see gem if you are travelling to Central America. Note that Antigua Guatemala is the city’s full name, hence no comma between the two words as together they mean old Guatemala. As it’s self-evident where the place is, writing “Guatemala” a second time would be unnecessarily repetitive. Notwithstanding that bit of pedantry the city is commonly referred to as just “Antigua” and I’ll stick with that for the remainder of this blog.

The former Spanish capital in this part of the world from the 16^th through the 18^th centuries, Antigua is a UNESCO World Heritage site with preserved colonial Spanish architecture of breathtaking beauty.

Antigua is featured as a shore excursion on some cruise ship itineraries and certainly it can be done in one day, but it is worthy of a longer stay to soak up its charms. Considered a much safer destination than the present-day capital, Guatemala City, Antigua is often used as a base from which to visit other parts of the country. There are buses departing to many parts of Guatemala including the popular Monterrico beach, Atitlan Lake, the deepest lake in Central America; Coban, San Agustin Lanquin and Tikal, one of the largest archaeological sites and urban centres of the pre-Columbian Maya civilisation.

The Maya civilisation developed in the region that today comprises south-eastern Mexico, all of Guatemala and Belize and the western portions of Honduras and El Salvador. “Maya” is a modern term used to refer collectively to the various peoples that inhabited this region. They did not call themselves Maya and did not have a sense of common identity or political unity. Today, their descendants number some seven million individuals, speak more than 28 surviving Mayan languages and reside in roughly the same areas as their ancestors.

Three large volcanoes dominate the horizon around Antigua. The Agua volcano with a height of 3,765 m (12,350 ft) is the closest one to Antigua and is located due south of the city.

Agua has never erupted in recent times and is considered extinct. However, it did play a role in the destruction of Guatemala’s second capital, Ciudad Vieja. In 1541 a mudslide roared down the slopes of the volcano after several days of heavy rain and buried large parts of the town. Many people including the Spanish governor lost their lives in the disaster, and the capital was subsequently moved to Antigua, where it remained for more than 200 years.

The Fuego volcano is arguably the most impressive of its kind in Central America, and it is continually active. Its name literally means fire volcano. Fuego is of a similar height to Agua and its frequent, relatively harmless eruptions can be seen from Antigua. However, a major eruption occurred in June 2018 sending lava flows into nearby rural communities and spewing ash over a large area. The official death toll was around 200, but some locals claimed as many as 3,000 may have died. It was the first eruption on that scale since 1902.

The Acatenango volcano is right next to Fuego. Its height of 3,976 m (13,040 ft) makes it Guatemala’s third-highest volcano and the highest one visible from Antigua. Acatenango last erupted in the 1970s and is dormant at this time. If you are bold you can hike to the top, from where the view is simply spectacular (I’m told!).

It is a joy to wander through this lovely city and worth braving the persistent street vendors – mostly women and girls – who pursue you relentlessly. If you try to shake them off by promising to look at their wares on your way back, they will ask for your name … and remember it when you return!

Central Park – Parque Central – is the heart of the city, with the reconstructed fountain there acting as a popular gathering spot. To the north of Central Park is the Arch of Santa Catalina, one of the most recognizable architectural landmarks of Antigua.

Antigua is noted for its very elaborate religious celebrations. Each Sunday during Lent, one of the local parishes sponsors a procession through the streets of the city.

There are numerous hotels ranging from the budget Hotel Casa Antigua to the more upmarket El Convento Boutique Hotel. There are many good restaurants in Antigua with cuisines from around the world including Italian, French, Asian, American and British. Small eateries can be found at the Antigua marketplace next to the central bus stop, where you will find Guatemalan dishes such as the traditional Chapin breakfast – eggs, refried beans, salsa, tortillas and fried bananas.

Antigua attracts a significant number of retirees from the USA and Europe, who join an already sizeable community of expatriates. There are many Spanish language schools in Antigua, making it an attractive destination for people who want to learn Spanish through immersion. It has gained a reputation as such through its enrolment of students from Europe, Asia, and North America. Language institutes form one of the primary industries of Antigua, along with tourism.

For most visitors Antigua is best seen on an organized tour or as a diversion when travelling in Guatemala, or take a shore excursion from a cruise around Central America. Make your own independent arrangements if you are adventurous. Antigua can be reached easily from Guatemala City and from the port of Puerto Quetzal and other Pacific and Caribbean ports where cruise ships call.

Photos © Judy Barford