Where Gumbo Was #524
After previously visiting the Institute for Contemporary Art on Broad Street in Richmond, I noticed a few street art murals when I returned to my parked car. On a lark, I decided to explore the area which I found out was called the Jackson Ward.
Once known as the “Harlem of the South,” downtown Richmond’s Jackson Ward neighborhood has been home to the US’s first female bank president, Maggie Lena Walker, and Hollywood dancing legend, Bill “Bojangles” Robinson. Known as a birthplace of Black entrepreneurship, Jackson Ward’s history and successes continue to attract and cultivate creative enterprises and businesses while uplifting its surrounding community.
There are walking tour operators for the Jackson Ward, but I explored onf my own. Street art has evolved from the vandal graffiti mode to some eye catching masterpieces beautifying old worn blank walls and projecting a message. I attempted to find a little history of each mural, architecture and artwork.
The mural with the facial portraits are of James Russell Stallings, Sr. who dropped out of school at age 13 to work in a chicken factory, then served as a cook in the Air Force. He worked at a Taxi company for 37 years but was prohibited to buy into the company because of his skin color, so he began buying and developing real estate in Jackson Ward for black occupancy. Also the portrait of Neverett Alexander Eggleston Sr., who owned a once prominent Jackson Ward hotel named for him that became a center of NAACP organizing and housed touring Black performers during segregation.
American bicycle racer Marshall Walter “Major” Taylor (1878-1932) was the world’s first black sports superstar and named “The Fastest Man in the World.” He was world cycling champion in 1899, American sprint champion in 1900, and set numerous track cycling records. Nicknamed “Major” because when just starting out he did bicycle stunts in a uniform for a local company.
Next up was Maggie Lena Walker, who rose to the leadership of a Black fraternal group and used her position to fight for Black and women’s rights and become the first Black woman to charter and serve as president of a bank in the United States. Emmett Burke was a very successful black banker prior to, during and after the Great Depression.
Jackson Ward is also dotted with a number of unique eateries and other establishments. King’s Fish Market, Ray’s Dog House on North 1st Street, Sandia’s brightly colored Juicebox, and Mud House Coffee Roasters.
On a window was a poster advertising the Black Restaurant Experience locations.
The Jamaica House restaurant and nearby complementary replete murals are located at a market on 400 North 2nd Street.
Captured a few of the interesting buildings. The colorful Mocha Temple #7 Shrine Club works with religious organizations and was founded in 1953. On the side of the Temple is a mural of Engine Company #9 in honor of the first Professional Black Firefighters and in 1968 the company was demolished. Very nearby is an old building that looks like a previous bank.
Up the street is Lucy’s Reserve Diner with extra crisp fresh potato fries and the OK mural.
In the same parking lot as Lucy’s is the black and white Invincive Studio mural called “Heron” on 414 North 2nd Street by artist Jacob Eveland, along with murals of Veggie Man, and a mural by Sir James Thornhill (not the famous English painter, but the modern Richmond muralist).
Larry Bland in the mural was a gospel choir director and considered a legend in the city while Marie Goodman Hunter (now 93) is an American actor, singer, and educator.
Next is the Black Lives Matter Mural called that is in the title photo: “Voices of Perseverance” located at 504 West Broad Street by artists Ed Trask and Jason Ford. Another mural by Ed Trask is “The Mechanism of Love, Light & Protection” on the side of the Art Crafts Design building at 508 West Broad Street.
Lastly, signage at the Headhunters Barbershop, the fashion sketch at Verdalina Women’s Shop on West Broad, and the former Moore’s Auto Body & Paint Shop building which was originally built as a stables back in 1875.
There were many, many more murals including some that were Pop Art but most portrayed the history of the predominantly black Jackson Ward.
Parking is very easy on most streets in the ward, but pay attention to time limits or any neighborhood restriction decals needed. Lots of soul food and ethnic eateries plus historic buildings, statues, and museums in the area. Richmond is the capital of Virginia and easily accessible by interstate highways, train or international and domestic airlines.
