Street Scenes in Hanoi

There is always something going on in Hanoi and it’s often happening right there on the street where you’re walking. If you’re a first-time visitor you’ll hear a lot about the Old Quarter and the French Quarter and it may sound like they’re one and the same area, but they’re not.

Hanoi Old Quarter is located to the north of Hoan Kiem Lake, which was featured in my first Hanoi blog in March. The old town was built purposely between the Imperial Citadel and the Red River as it was considered an advantageous area for trade development.

Old Quarter’s history dates back to the 11th century when Emperor Ly Thai To, moved the capital from Hoa Lu (Ninh Binh) to Thang Long (Hanoi). After this historical decision, many merchants gathered around the royal palace in order to sell their products and over time organised themselves into craft cooperatives and guilds. All the streets were called “Hang”, which means merchandise or shop, followed by the name of their particular product such as Hang Bac (jewellery), Hang Ma (paper product), Hang Duong (sugar) and Hang Muoi (salt).

There were originally 36 streets in the quarter and although the district is still sometimes called The 36 Streets, there are more like 76 streets there today. Some are still grouped by what they sell, with names to match, such as Hang Dau (shoes and sandals) and Hang Gai (silks), but most are now more diversified.

Among the traditional shop houses with low sloped roofs, temples were nestled between stores. The communal temples were places of worship for the tradesmen and each temple was dedicated to the craft. However, some temples have been demolished and dilapidated storefronts have been renovated using more modern architectural styles.

Among the remaining temples is Bach Ma (above), claimed to be the oldest temple in old Hanoi. It was built by Emperor Ly Thai To in the 11th century to honour a white horse that guided him to the spot where he was destined to build Hanoi.

Turning now to Hanoi’s French Quarter, this is situated to the south-east of Hoan Kiem Lake and is known for high-end stores and colonial-era architecture. It makes for a fascinating contrast to the crumbling and colourful buildings you pass in the Old Quarter and is more tranquil. Home to the Opera House, upmarket malls, wider pavements and tree-lined streets, the French Quarter stands out as quite different to the rest of Hanoi.

While the district is identifiable by the grandiose architecture and boutique shops, the Vietnamese people have made it their own, creating a unique blend of cultures. If you want peace and quiet while you stroll, the French Quarter is the place to head for. However, most of the photos in this blog were taken in the Old Quarter, where quirky street scenes are more plentiful.

People carrying things – by hand, on carts and on motor vehicles – are everywhere.

There are numerous businesses operating right there on the street front. Note in the second picture below that it’s so hot you even need a fan outdoors!

People like to eat on the street as well, or just make things.

You can even get a shave or a haircut.

Located at the northern end of Hoan Kiem Lake is Dong Kinh Nghia Thuc Square, a popular gathering spot with a fountain in the centre. It is frequented heavily on weekends, when it is closed to traffic at night. Visitors come here to people-watch, eat, drink and explore the Hanoi Night Market.

Nearby is the building above, not typical of Hanoi and suffering from a distinct identity crisis.

Photos © Judy Barford

Next time: some cultural attractions in this fascinating city.