Bangkok: Emerald Buddha and Grand Palace

The morning I set off to visit the Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace complex I wasn’t it is part of, I really had no idea that I was in for an experience a bit like opening a Russian stacking doll, with each layer revealing another.

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The Grand Palace complex covers several square blocks starting from the river. Within its walls are the former Grand Palace (above), built in the 1780s and some still-in-use administrative buildings. Also within the walled compound, there is an additional walled area containing temples and other religious buildings (below).

1920px-Wat_Phra_Kaew_by_Ninara_TSP_edit_cropNinara/Wikimedia

And then, within that space, there’s the famous temple itself, containing a surprisingly small (26″) statue of Buddha carved from a single piece of jade but confusingly often called the Emerald Buddha. That temple is in the title photo; the jade statue is below. To Thai worshippers, it is the most sacred image of the Buddha, and has been installed over the centuries in different cities as the Thai kingdom’s capital shifted.

Emerald_Buddha,_August_2012,_Bangkok_(cropped)JPSwimmer/Wikimedia

The main temple, also called the Ordination Hall, where the statue is enshrined is no shrinking violet, either. It’s easy to spot… just look where the crowds are lined up to enter.

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The building’s decor is not only spectacular, but meticulously maintained, with everything shining that should be. At a few points, I saw staff members with brushes clearing dust from statues and niches. It must be an immense job!

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I won’t make any attempt to identify all the buildings, statues and other components of the complex; I will just say that the effect is overwhelming; just when you think you have seen all you can, or the most beautiful work… there’s more.

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True, however, that the sense of order and respect that I saw may not always be the case, since it’s apparently necessary to post these warnings…

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And, of course, in case of any serious misbehavior, there are some rather fearsome security guards posted here and there…

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Here’s one of the entranceways into the Palace and Wat complex. Admission to the open area, seen below with a Year of the Rabbit planter, is free, but there is a small admission charge for foreigners to pass through the next wall to visit the inner areas and museums.  Free for Thai citizens; as a guide explained to his group “We already paid for all this!”

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As in many public places in Thaliand, as well as along major streets, full attention is given to the king and other members of his family; here’s one from in front of the Royal Palace itself.

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In no particular order, here are more images of the amazing buildings, as well as a 19th-century painting of the complex.

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The slideshow at the end contains more images; there is a limit to how much to include here, no matter how beautiful the buildings and their decor are.

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1 year ago

Great photos! Unfortunately, the site attracts large numbers of visitors and you generally have to point the camera upwards to avoid getting too many heads into the shot.It’s sad that they feel that warning signs about ‘inappropriate behaviour’ are needed – I have moaned about this kind of thing on these pages before.

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