As you walk further and further into the depths of the forest in the Kulen mountains, passing tiny settlements en route, you eventually reach the waterfalls. It is possible to ascend all the way to the top of the placid stream that continues on its downhill journey, and though this was not part of the regular itinerary I did hike up to get a better idea of the place, and catch all those rare and precious moments that only eyes full of wonder may witness- monks having a dip and social media photo ops, sleepy hawkers quoting the standard one dollar for all their wares, and sun dappled patches of water and verdure here and there.
At the base of the falls are the springs that locals and visitors are urged to take a dip in for their therapeutic properties (and to purportedly wash away sins), and changing rooms and swimsuits are available for a small fee that can be split among two people. It is quite something to wade through the chest high pools and find a stony ledge to perch on while the torrent from above falls loud and heavy upon your head and shoulders, but soon you start to shiver and must make your way back, by now absolutely ravenous and waiting to tuck into a sumptuous lunch.
If you had not stopped by the “Thousand Lingas” or the “Mahavishnu Temple” earlier you can do so on the return leg, but they are a must see. The former is an array of shallow sculptures built by the king of that era in supplication to the Lord Shiva, and though they are now eroded and effaced, the faint details on the sandstone constructions can be easily appreciated. In the dry season they lie exposed, and in the height of the monsoon the entire area is inundated and off limits; my visit at the beginning of the rainy season gave me a clear and beautiful glimpse of this minor architectural marvel.
The temple can be reached after climbing some easy fifty or so steps, lined on either side by exquisite statues, and boasting a giant reclining Buddha at the summit of the small hill on which the temple is situated. It is therefore frequented by both Hindus and Buddhists, and it is enriching to learn about the cultural context behind this structure. From the top one can get a bird’s eye view of more of the Kulen mountains and the verdant valleys in this region. A huge gong alongside the sleeping deity is popular with everyone of every age as they heave and heft to sound the call of peace and joy.
