On a recent Viking Expedition Cruise, I visited Halifax, Nova Scotia, on the Canadian Discovery itinerary. I took an included excursion at every previous port and loved them. This time, however, my travel companion and friend Anne suggested we set out on our own to visit the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site.
The ship docked where we could exit the boat and walk to the Citadel. After a few miles of uphill traversing, we entered the fort.
History
Four fortifications have been constructed on Citadel Hill since the English founded the city in 1749, the year that Edward Cornwallis oversaw the development of Halifax. While never attacked, the Citadel was located strategically above Halifax Harbor and its Royal Navy Dockyard.
In the late 15th century, Europeans arrived to fish, trade, and shelter from the harsh North Atlantic. Britain chose the location to construct a strategic naval base to counter the threat that Louisbourg, the French port on Cape Breton Island, posed to New England.
Four versions of the Citadel have protected that naval base and the town of Halifax. The first fort served through the Seven Years’ War, the second during the American Revolution, and the third during the Napoleonic Wars and the War of 1812. After 1815, British authorities decided that permanent stone works should replace the old wooden forts. Construction of a fourth Citadel began in 1828 and continued until 1856.
This massive star-shaped masonry-construction fort was designed to repel both a land-based attack or an attack from the water by United States forces. In addition to its military role in the defense of the port, the Citadel was home to thousands of soldiers and their families, many of whom chose to settle here.
In 1867, British North America became the Dominion of Canada, but the continuing importance of Halifax as a port for the Royal Navy saw British troops remain here until 1906. The Citadel was then occupied by the Canadian military and remained active through two World Wars until 1952, when it was transferred from the Department of National Defence to Parks Canada.
Exploring the Citadel
Like its soldiers, today, guests are offered a sweeping view of downtown Halifax, and this day, costumed interpreters brought the Citadel to life with two historic regiments of the British Army – the pageantry of the 78th Highlanders, and the precision of the Royal Artillery.
We entered the courtyard and explored rooms with illustrative furnishings, including the guard shack, tailor shop, and officer quarters. Costumed female docents offered information as they went about their knitting and embroidery.
It was educational to explore the ramparts and tunnels and imagine life in a bygone era. The skirl of the bagpipes followed us throughout our visit as we climbed to the second story and lookout, where cannons were on display surrounded by wildflowers. From here is a great vantage point of the city.
We spent the better part of two hours exploring and talking to docents.
We also decided to explore the city’s most visited site, Halifax Public Gardens, an oasis in the bustling city.
The beautiful 16 acres of Victorian-inspired garden has been open to the public since 1867. We wandered past a pond with resident ducks, flower beds of rainbow colors, and a lovely gazebo in its center.
We stopped at the Old Burying Grounds on our way back to the ship. Established in 1749, this is Halifax’s first cemetery.
A young man serving as a guide explained that many residents were buried without markers when the area was first designated a burying ground. Our guide told us that there are approximately ten graves for each tombstone.
We walked through the solemn grounds with our guide, who pointed out centuries-old symbolism on the markers and that one tombstone named the man who murdered the person buried in the plot.
If you go:
Before we headed out alone, we mapped our route and used GPS. Everyone we asked for directions was also friendly and helpful.
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