Korcula: A Croatian Island Gem

There are various opinions about which Croatian island is the most beautiful, with Hvar being the pick of many people. However, for me there is only one choice and that is Korcula (pronounced KOR-chew-lah), a small island in the Adriatic Sea, close to the mainland, that’s part of the central Dalmatian archipelago.

It is rich in vineyards, olive groves and small villages, but it is the dense pine forests and attractive beaches that give it extra character. Even in the captivating old town there are pine trees dotted around the walls and they give the place a distinctive look.

We landed here on the local island cruising vessel, MS Stella Maris – a comfortable 36-passenger ship but not really in the deluxe class advertised. It’s pictured above. Digressing for a moment, if you or someone you know is ever on this ship and you plan to monitor its course online, be aware that there are 123 vessels named Stella Maris on the Vessel Finder database!

As you enter the Old Town you are met with a row of mainly outdoor restaurants on both sides of the walkway, but the left side has the advantage of stunning sea views over a low-level wall. We enjoyed a simple seafood dinner at one of these restaurants and revelled in the atmosphere of the balmy evening.

Korcula has a long and interesting history. The first known inhabitants were Illyrian tribes who occupied a large area of Dalmatia. They lived from farming and fishing. Then the Ancient Greeks arrived in the 6^th century BCE and Korcula became a Greek colony. However, the Greeks didn’t seek to conquer the Illyrians but to live alongside them. They made no attempt to integrate with the Illyrians, who were thus able to continue both their tribal lifestyle and their separate existence.

The island was part of the Roman Empire for a time, but in 1420 it finally fell under the strong rule of the Venetians and was part of the Republic of Venice until it finally fell in 1797. During those years many battles were fought against the Ottoman armies, as part of the Ottoman-Venetian Wars, and this led to the building of the fortification walls and towers around the Korcula town.

After the fall of the Venetian Empire the island came under the control of various groups, including the Croatian-Hungarian Kingdom, the Austrians, the French and the Russians. The British also ruled over the island between 1813 and 1815. In 1920 it finally became part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, when the first Treaty of Rapallo was signed.

Over time, with the threat of wars diminishing and the town’s lifestyle evolving, the walls began to be neglected and by the 19^th century a large proportion of them were almost derelict. Some parts have since been demolished but the remainder still stand.

Korcula Old Town is the main attraction, positioned on an oval-shaped swelling of land pointing deep into the Peljesac Channel. The old town itself is criss-crossed with a succession of narrow streets that branch off the spine of the main street like a fishbone. The fishbone shape was used to reduce the effects of wind and sun and provide citizens with sheltered and comfortable accommodation.

The architecture in the old town is influenced mainly by the Venetian Renaissance period. However, the old town centre is dominated by the splendid St Mark’s Cathedral, built in the Gothic-Renaissance style and completed in the 15th century. It was built by local masters and craftsman of stone masonry, most famous among them was stonemason Marko Andijic who completed the cathedral’s tower and cupola in 1481, as well as an elegant ciborium above the main altar.

The Cathedral’s facade is decorated with a beautiful, fluted rose and various relief and statues, while the main portal is framed by statues of Adam and Eve and figures of lions. All of this work took place during an economic boom caused by the development of stone masonry at the end of the 14th century.

The construction of the Cathedral included portions of the old church and public buildings that were already located on the square, such as the loggia and city bell tower. Construction continued through the 15th century and several generations of local stonemasons and stone carvers cooperated in the project.

There is a local legend that says Marco Polo was born in the town, although I’m sure that Venetians would dispute that. Nevertheless, the house where he is said to have been born is on display and is about to be turned into a museum dedicated to the famous explorer.

The Town Museum is also interesting to visit as it gives insights into Korcula’s history, displaying stone carvings, Ancient Greek artifacts and historical shipbuilding items among other exhibits.

It is worth spending a few days on Korcula as there are several interesting villages on the island. Here are some of the closest to the Old Town.

Zrnovo – a five-minute bus ride from Korcula town, the village of Zrnovo is well known for its old cypresses, terraced vineyards, stone houses, its churches and bell towers and olive groves. There is also a nice walking route from Korcula Old Town.  

Lumbarda – a little fisherman’s village a 10-minute bus ride from Korcula town. Lumbarda is known for its fine vineyards and production of a unique white wine known as Grk. Lumbarda is a very popular tourist spot as it has the only sand beaches on Korcula – Vela Przina and Bilin Zal.

Racisce – a 20-minute bus ride from Korcula town is the fisherman’s and seaman’s village of Racisce, situated in one of the northern Korcula bays. It is quite a small place, with only about 500 inhabitants, mostly sailors and their families.

Pupnat – the oldest settlement on the island, about 12 kilometres from Old Town and dating back to Illyrian times. The well-preserved village architecture is worth seeing. Pupnat is probably best known for its bay of Pupnatska Luka – one of the most beautiful pebble beaches on the Island.

Cara – about a 20-minute, 25-kilometre bus ride from Korcula town, right in the middle of the Island. Cara is well known, together with the village of Smokvica, for its famous white wine Posip which is cultivated here. The nearby bays of Zavalatica and Zitna are good swimming locations where there are a couple of restaurants with nice sea views.

Korcula is part of UNESCO’s tentative list for Croatia but still has to qualify for inclusion in the World Heritage List.

Access from the mainland is easy. The nearest airports are Split and Dubrovnik, from where there are numerous ferries to Korcula. Ferries also run between Korcula and neighbouring islands.

Photos © Judy Barford

Supplementary information from korculainfo.com reproduced with the permission of the website owner.