The Estonia History Museum has what might seem like a clear and simple mission: to preserve and explain Estonia’s national identity. But that’s not as clear and simple as it might seem, given Estonia’s history. More later!
Image: Borodun/Wikimedia Commons
The museum’s home is an important piece of that history itself. It occupies the Great Guild Hall, built over 600 years ago as a political, social and above all economic center for the merchants of the rising city, the northernmost city of the Hanseatic League, which dominated trade throughout the region.
The Great Guild, as they called themselves, survived until 1920, although its ruling powers and even much of its influence were long gone. But their Gothic building continued on as a center for meetings, concerts, celebrations and more. In the 19th century, it became home to Tallinn’s fledgling stock exchange, a role it filled until 1939.
Since 1952, it’s been home to the history museum, but even that has a history. The museum’s first ancestor, the Estonian Provincial Museum, was founded in 1864 by Baltic German intellectuals, and naturally focused on this history of the German-speaking merchant and elite community that still dominated the area.
Over the years since then, as Estonia became independent, was seized by Germany in World War II and became part of the USSR after World War II, and then independent again in the 1990s, the museum’s task and focus changed repeatedly.
So, defining Estonian history and identity is not an easy task. In the background are pre-Christian peoples, German Knights, Hanseatic merchants, and wars that often pitted Sweden, Russia and others in battles through and for the area; unlike some countries, Estonia was seldom, perhaps never until the past couple of centuries, a ‘country’ or ‘nation’ in the way we understand those terms.
Turbulent eras of war led to hoards of coins and jewelry being hidden for safety; some owners never returned, and centuries passed before recovery
And so, the museum takes on the task of trying to explain that, complete with exhibits that ask provocative questions, such as “Why did Estonia not become a Kingdom?” and “What Social Classes Existed in Society?”
A long hallway almost the length of the building is partitioned off into small exhibit spaces that follow up these questions with narrative signs and objects that help tell the story. Other signs and exhibits trace a timeline of events in the area’s history. And, one bright display offers visitors the opportunity to proclaim themselves king or queen and take a royal selfie.
With all that going on, not much of the ancient building itself is visible on the main floor, other than the large assembly room where major events have taken place throughout the building’s history and up to today.
However, down an ancient stairway, the building’s cellar shows itself off nicely, along with exhibits representing the historic uses of the building, as well as the incredibly solid structure of the building itself. But watch your head!
Wine and luxury goods were among the commodities Guild members traded in and consumed, and the cellar was often used for storage of their stock. Lumber and dried fish were other important commodities for the Hanseatic League. Tallinn shared one particular specialty with Lubeck: the making of marzipan.
Above, a display of Estonian money over the centuries and a children’s block model of the building from early 19th century. Below, a councilor’s chair and uniforms and weapons from the city’s armory.
Despite its medieval origins, the Great Guild Hall had central heating rather than fireplaces or stoves in each room. Using a hypocaust system invented by Romans, a huge furnace in the basement heated the underside of the floor above. Empty spaces in the walls allowed the heat to rise as high as the second floor… but it took a lot of wood and a lot of work to keep the fires going!
I saved this for last: I cannot explain the meaning of the world supported on elephants supported on a turtle, which appears in several different mythologies, mostly in Asia, but I can say for certain it is not a reference to Terry Pratchett’s Discworld books, because there are only two elephants. Share your guesses!
There are actually three elephants, but your point remains: you would expect four.
Thanks! It’s a beautiful place, and could have kept me busy for much longer!
I have been trying to arrange a trip to #Estonia for a few years. Your article and photos have boosted my efforts. This article was excellent, with images of the museum and the country’s history. Well done!