One of the first things you see when approaching Tromsø in northern Norway is the striking Arctic Cathedral. Whether you arrive by sea (which we did) or air, the Arctic Cathedral stands out prominently at the end of Tromsø bridge and is clearly visible from the centre of town, set against the background of the 1,238-metre Tromsdalstind peak.
The building’s proper name is the Tromsdalen Church, but its eye-catching shape and daring design by architect Jan Inge Hovig earned it the name Arctic Cathedral (Ishavskatedralen) soon after it opened in November 1965. However, despite this nickname it’s not really a cathedral but a parish church. Still, it looks more like a cathedral and the ‘Arctic’ part is certainly appropriate as Tromsø lies well north of the Arctic Circle, so I shall refer to it generally as the cathedral throughout this post.
We explored the cathedral on a relatively fine day and saw it at its best. The building seats about 600 people and its shape is believed to be a reference to the nearby twin-peaked island of Håja.
The cathedral’s roof is formed by 11 aluminium-coated concrete panels on each side – said to represent the 11 apostles remaining after the betrayal – which contribute to its unusual shape. Strip lights have been positioned between the wall panels and when darkness falls the distinctive outline of the church is clearly visible from all parts of Tromsø.
The main entrance on the western side is surrounded by a large glass façade with a prominent cross. The eastern wall behind the altar is decorated with one of the largest, most monumental glass mosaics in Europe, which was added in 1972.
The ‘Return of Christ’ mosaic is the work of Norwegian painter and glass designer Victor Sparre. The mosaic pieces are three centimetres thick and the density of the colours varies depending on the direction and intensity of the sun.
Inside are oak pews that complement the cathedral’s severity and simplicity, together with an altar rail and pulpit in a style that is consistent with the overall design. The prism chandeliers of Czech crystal are inspired by icicles and contribute to the building’s distinctively cool look.
The church organ, built in 2005 by Grönlunds Orgelbyggeri, has three manuals, a pedalboard and 42 stops. It follows the French Romantic tradition and is beautifully adapted to the building’s architecture, evoking an association with sails and ice floes. The organ comprises 2,940 pipes with the longest measuring 9.6 metres and the smallest just five millimetres. Much of the woodwork is in solid pine and the bellows are made of reindeer hide.
Visitors are welcome and the cathedral’s opening hours for the remainder of this year are as follows:
Until May 31: 13:00-17:00 (Wednesday 14:00-17:00)
Constitution Day 17 May: CLOSED
June 01 – August 15: 09.00 – 18.00 (Sunday 13.00 – 18.00)
August 16 – Dec 31: 13:00-17:00 (Wednesday 14:00-17:00)
However, the Arctic Cathedral is a working parish church and, as such, can close at short notice for weddings and funerals.
There is an adult admission charge of NOK 80 (about US$7.35) with free entry for children 12 and under.
The Arctic Cathedral has become an extremely popular concert venue, providing as it does outstanding acoustics with reverberation as in a cathedral. The performers include artists and choirs who have made their mark locally, nationally and internationally.
Tromsø Cathedral – the largest wooden cathedral in northern Europe.
These events should not be confused with the popular midnight concerts held at Tromsø Cathedral in the town centre. The midnight concerts offer a profound glimpse into the soul of the Arctic and are heavily patronised by both locals and visitors.
Photos © Judy Barford
Next time: a broader look at the Tromsø area.
