Cruising the Galapagos Islands

The Galapagos Islands are an archipelago in the eastern Pacific Ocean located about 900 kilometres (560 miles) to the west of Ecuador, the country to which they belong. The islands straddle the equator and are therefore situated in both the northern and southern hemispheres. The islands are famous for their diverse and endemic plant and animal species and the well-documented observations of British naturalist, Charles Darwin.

There are two principal ways of seeing the Galapagos Islands and one of them is a cruise. Cruising is what this blog is about but it’s expensive – at least US$1,000 a day – so first I’ll mention the second way, which is land based.

A land-based tour involves flying to the islands, staying in a hotel and then taking day trips into the Galapagos National Park. The conventional way of doing this is to fly from either Quito or Guayaquil in Ecuador to Seymour Airport on Baltra Island, transfer to the adjacent island of Santa Cruz and then base yourself in the town of Puerto Ayora (pictured below) where the inter-island ferries depart from. Flight time from the mainland is about two hours and you can fly with Avianca, LATAM or Tame. Transfer time from Seymour Airport to Puerto Ayora is about 50 minutes.

Some day trips are entirely land based, but many require a boat ride of an hour or more to reach the point where the tour begins. Day trips are obviously limited to locations on the island, and most of the other islands can only be reached by boat. Land-based tours start at about US$3,000 per person for an eight-day itinerary.

Returning now to cruising, conservation-led luxury travel company andBeyond has announced an extension of its South America portfolio with the launch of an expedition yacht in the Galapagos Islands.

Named the andBeyond Galapagos Explorer, the 38 metre (124 foot) yacht is operating on two different seven-night routes in the east and west of the famed archipelago. With just four cabins and two luxury suites, the yacht caters for a maximum of 12 guests, with two expert guides present on each departure.

The Galapagos Explorer offers the choice of discovering the east or the west of the main cluster of islands, and includes destination highlights of both itineraries. Highlights of the eastern itinerary include the magnificent formation of Kicker Rock, located just off San Cristóbal Island, as well as sightings of the critically endangered waved albatross in Gardner Bay on Española Island.

The western Itinerary explores the geographical centre of the Galapagos Islands, Sombrero Chino Island, as well as providing the opportunity for close encounters with the rare Santa Fe land iguana on Santa Fe Island.

Both itineraries present plenty of opportunities for land and sea activities such as snorkelling, hiking and birdwatching, as well as viewing a plethora of unique and interesting land, air and marine species.

With only 12 guests on board, the elevated guest-to-staff ratio makes the Galapagos Explorer the most exclusive yacht operating in the islands. Following an extensive refurbishment of its interiors, the Galapagos Explorer began operating last month. For bookings made between now and November, andBeyond is offering a discount of up to 15 per cent on selected departures.

The volcanic Galapagos Islands consist of 18 main islands, three smaller islands, and 107 rocks and islets. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978, the islands are home to a remarkable variety of flora and fauna, with many species found nowhere else on earth. Notable species include the Galapagos giant tortoise, marine iguana and blue-footed booby.

The islands also display unique geographical features, and each has created a distinct ecosystem of its own. There are strict conservation measures in place to preserve the delicate balance. The Charles Darwin Research Centre, located on Santa Cruz Island, focuses on conservation efforts and conducts scientific research to protect the rare biodiversity of the islands.

andBeyond’s Oceans Without Borders (OWB) initiative is a collaborative marine conservation project founded in partnership with Africa Foundation, its long-standing community and conservation development partner. This dedicated program spans andBeyond’s marine footprint, encompassing the seascapes surrounding the islands of Benguerra and Vamizi in Mozambique, and Mnemba Island in Zanzibar.

andBeyond plans to extend OWB to the Galapagos and hopes to be able to plan and implement projects that support the islands’ incredible land and wildlife. Furthermore, in line with its proven dedication to community development, it aims to train and upskill local residents, as well as to highlight local procurement opportunities.

Another company providing a similar service is Hurtigruten Expeditions, a subsidiary of the Hurtigruten Group probably best known for its Norwegian Coastal Express classic voyage. Hurtigruten offers seven-day adventures on-board MS Santa Cruz II, visiting some of the most spectacular and iconic sites of the Galapagos archipelago.

However, this ship has a much larger passenger capacity of 90 guests, although it claims they assign only 11 guests to one expedition guide. MS Santa Cruz II is newly refurbished in a modern Scandinavian style, features outstanding onboard facilities and its small size allows it to venture off the beaten track for numerous activities including snorkelling, kayaking and guided nature walks.

To offer guests one-of-a-kind experiences, Hurtigruten Expeditions has entered into a long-term strategic partnership with Ecuador-based Metropolitan Touring, claimed to be the most experienced and renowned travel company in the Galapagos. Metropolitan Touring has offered intimate and unique encounters with the islands’ wildlife since it pioneered expedition cruises in Galapagos almost 70 years ago.

Hurtigruten Group has now acquired a 25 per cent stake in Metropolitan Touring, strengthening the company’s position in the adventure travel market. The collaboration allows Hurtigruten Expeditions to offer year-round expedition cruises, including visits to the Galapagos Islands’ most spectacular sites.

Foreign visitors should note that the Galapagos National Park entry fee will double to US$200 per person in August this year and must be paid in cash to park officials on arrival at the islands, or as advised by their tour operator. It sounds steep but it is the first increase since 1998. The fee for visitors from South American Mercosur countries will rise from US$50 to US$100 and for Ecuadorian nationals it will jump from US$6 to US$30. The current discount for students will be scrapped but there are reduced rates for children. In addition there is a Transit Control Card fee of US$20.00 per person, payable in cash at the port of arrival, if not paid before.

The government says that the extra funds raised will be directly channelled into conservation initiatives, infrastructure upgrades and community programs, with urgent attention given to sewerage and waste management systems. These measures are aimed at mitigating the environmental impacts arising from the massive growth of tourism on the islands, particularly in land-based tours.

Now might be a good time to visit this unique part of the world before the inevitable introduction of more restrictions makes it less appealing.

Ship photos supplied by the owners