Volterra, Tuscany: History Writ Large

We came here late last year for a friend’s wedding and stayed for a few days. We had been to nearby San Gimignano and Monteriggioni before, but never to this equally stunning hill town. It is a bit more than an hour’s drive from Florence through pleasant countryside.

We stayed at the atmospheric Hotel Volterra In (above) located right in the historic centre of the town. Volterra In was completely renovated in 2014 to provide visitors with all the modern comforts. It consists of two older buildings with three floors providing five double rooms, a single room and four suites, one with a rooftop terrace served by a lift. There is a cosy bar off the reception area and secure parking is 150 metres away.

Perched majestically atop a rugged hill in the heart of Tuscany, Italy, Volterra boasts a rich history that stretches back over 2,500 years. Its story weaves through the tapestry of Etruscan, Roman, medieval, Renaissance and modern times, scattering a legacy that sometimes leaves you spellbound.

The earliest traces of human settlement in the area date back to the Neolithic period, but it was during the Etruscan civilisation that Volterra began to flourish. Known to the Etruscans as Velathri, the city became one of the twelve most important cities of the Etruscan League, thriving as a centre for trade, art and religion. The Etruscans constructed massive fortifications, including the imposing walls that still encircle the town today, attesting to their impressive engineering skills.

With the rise of the Roman Empire, Volterra fell under Roman control in the 3rd century BCE, becoming a prosperous Roman municipality known as Volaterrae. The Romans left their mark on the cityscape with the construction of temples, baths, and a large theatre, reflecting Volterra’s importance as a cultural and administrative centre in the region.

When the Roman Empire declined, Volterra, like many other cities, faced periods of instability and conflict. It endured invasions by barbarian tribes and witnessed the rise and fall of various ruling powers. However, its strategic location atop a defensible hill provided some protection, allowing it to retain its significance through the turbulent times of the Middle Ages.

During the medieval period, Volterra became a free commune, asserting its autonomy from feudal lords and establishing itself as a thriving centre of commerce and craftsmanship. The city’s wealth grew from its production of alabaster, a prized material for sculpture and decoration, which remains an important part of Volterra’s craftsmanship to this day.

Magnificent palaces, churches, and towers rose within the city walls, showcasing the wealth and artistic sophistication of its inhabitants.

In the 15th century, Volterra came under the control of the powerful Medici family of Florence, marking the beginning of its integration into the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Under Medici rule, Volterra experienced a period of relative stability and cultural patronage, with notable artists such as Andrea della Robbia leaving their mark on the city’s churches and public spaces.

The subsequent centuries saw Volterra weathering the political upheavals of Italy, from the Napoleonic Wars to the Risorgimento, Italy’s unification movement. Despite these challenges, the town retained its distinct character, with its medieval streets, Renaissance palaces and ancient ruins.

In the modern era, Volterra has embraced tourism while preserving its cultural heritage and traditional way of life. Visitors can explore its archaeological sites, wander through its artisan workshops, and enjoy the flavours of Tuscan cuisine in its trattorias and osterias.

Volterra is rich in artistic heritage that can be admired while walking through the streets of the historic centre. Volterra is an easy town to walk around but it does have some steep inclines. It has several museums including the Ecomuseum of Alabaster, the Etruscan Museum and the Museum of Sacred Art.

The art gallery Pinacoteca and the Civic Museum gather artworks of significant historical and artistic value and display them in the rooms of the Palazzo Minucci-Solaini.

^{Photo: Raimond Spekking/Wikimedia Commons}

Continue walking and you’ll find Piazza San Giovanni with the Baptistery of San Giovanni and the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta (shown left to right in the top picture above, with a close-up of the baptistery immediately above), important examples of local medieval architecture.

Adjacent to the cathedral, the Palazzo dei Priori towers above the piazza of the same name.  Construction of the palace began in 1208, making it the oldest municipal building in Tuscany. The facade features heraldic shields in stone and terracotta, representing ruling families after Volterra became part of the Duchy of Tuscany in 1472.

Just outside the town centre, near the medieval walls, are the remains of the splendid Roman Theatre of Volterra. Excavations that began in 1950 dated the construction of the theatre to around the end of the 1st century BCE, and brought to light part of the original stairways that were built using the natural slope in a style similar to that of Greek theatres.

There are about 20 rows of seats still visible and it’s estimated that the entire theatre must have held around 3,500 spectators. The Roman theatre was abandoned at the end of the third century CE and thermal baths were installed.

At the northern end of the city is the Badia di San Giusto, an important Camaldolese monastery founded in 1034 by the bishop of Volterra and dedicated to the patron saint of the city. The abbey is worth a visit for the well-preserved cloister and refectory, and for the spectacular panorama it offers.

As a wedding was the main reason for our trip, I thought I should briefly mention the venue, Villa Le Capanne. This resort is located about five kilometres from the centre of Volterra in the Tuscan countryside, adjacent to a nature reserve. Located on 40 hectares of land, it affords sweeping views of the Tuscan horizon.

Country Relais & Spa Le Capanne, to give it its full name, is a 100-year-old farmhouse surrounded by hiking trails, panoramic viewpoints and waterfalls. The villa covers 650 square metres and has nine en-suite private bedrooms sleeping up to 22 guests. There are two large dining spaces, a spacious living room and a well-equipped professional kitchen. Wi-Fi and air-conditioning are available throughout the entire villa. The villa also has an indoor jacuzzi spa with a hand-made waterfall, an original 100-year-old wood-burning pizza oven, a built-in barbecue and two firepits.

The owners are professional wedding planners and also have their own catering company and pastry shop. They boast more than 35 years’ experience organising weddings and they are the second oldest catering company in the province of Pisa. You can learn more about the villa here.

Photos © Judy Barford except where otherwise credited