Porto is Portugal’s “second city.” It sits along the coast at the mouth of the Duoro River. While it may be second in size to Lisbon, its history is just as deep as the capital’s. It was a trading center as far back as the Roman Empire. As usual, my favorite thing is to explore the ways a city’s history is visible as I walk through its streets and neighborhoods.
My base of operations was the Arts Hotel Porto, a part of the Hilton Tapestry Collection. The hotel is on the border of the Bolhão and Ribiera neighborhoods. The front of the building is an 18th century façade, but its interior has been totally rebuilt. The Arts has a full bar and restaurant in its lobby with a beautiful patio and grassy lawn in the rear. It was a great place to watch the start of football season throughout Europe over dinner and drinks. The area is a nice mix of tourist and business, so there is a great mix of restaurants and cafes within an easy walk.
On my first day I set off to explore the city on foot. I had a few goals, but no planned path. My first stop was the at the Igreja Paroquial de Santo Ildefonso (Church of Saint Ildefonso). Idelfonso was born to a Visigoth family in 607, in Toledo, Spain. He joined the church, becoming a monk and then abbot of the Agali monastery. He was appointed bishop of Toledo in 657, following his uncle in that position.
The church was finished in 1739, and it towers over the Batalha Plaza. It was built on the site of a chapel that dated back before the 13th century. The baroque style church has had renovations, and is home to museum of church icons and ephemera. The tiled facade was added in 1932, depicting events from the life of St. Ildefonso. It was created by the artist Jorge Colaço.
This old section of Porto is a warren of twisty streets. None of them travel in straight line. But they provide something new to see around every corner and curve. One place I discovered was the LOOK Sharp Cafe, where I had a late breakfast. Their food was fresh, and the vibe was welcoming.
As I followed the streets toward my next destination, I encountered a cute little shop, the Squid Inks Works. This is a collective of graphic artists from around Europe, but all now based in Porto. They produce wonderful art at reasonable prices.
My next stop was the São Bento train station. It was built at the cusp of the 20th century, on the site of a Benedictine convent. The desire to build a train station in the center of the city required the construction of tunnel under the hills of Porto, a significant engineering feat for its time. The lobby of the station is lined with tiles painted with scenes representing the history and culture of Porto created by Jorge Colaço (again).
This was not the end of my walk, but we will get to that next week.
