Where Gumbo Was, #197
When we first arrived in Valparaiso and settled into our hilltop B&B, and began taking in the city’s hills around us, one of the most unusual buildings we saw was an unusual green-roofed building on one of the hills across from us. It seemed like a mix of resort hotel, country mansion, maybe more.
We soon learned that this spectacular mansion is a city landmark, and houses the city’s Museo de Bellas Artes. When we visited it to see its excellent collection of Chilean and European art, we also found a building worth visiting in itself, and a worthy subject for this week’s puzzle.
We have one winner this week, George G., who looked at architectural details that reminded him of Croatia (especially the checkerboard motif), but settled on the correct answer. And Croatia enters into the picture, because although the house was built by an Italian architect for a family of Italian immigrants, it was soon bought by Pascual Baburizza, an immigrant from Croatia. Jonathan L got the city, but not the right building.
Baburizza made a fortune in a variety of businesses, especially salpeter, nitrates and agriculture. He also indulged himself in an art collection, focusing on 19th century European artists. Unlike many collections, he appears to have largely avoided the Impressionists. A good number of his paintings include views of Chile by European artists. At his death in 1941, he left the house and his collection to the city. The street behind the house was renamed to honor his birthplace.
A few years ago, the city moved its Museum of Fine Arts into the building as well. The museum’s five levels include a large collection of works by Chilean artists of the past 150 years, reflecting changes in Chilean society over that time, as well as changes in artistic styles. It’s the sort of exhibition we were disappointed to not find in the museum in Santiago.
The architects, who were trained in Trieste and Vienna when the Moderniste movement was developing in Europe, brought elements of that style with them when they came to Valparaiso in 1906. Their arrival was no accident: Valparaiso had been devastated by the same earthquake that hit San Francisco that year, and there was plenty of work for architects and builders.
Inside and out, there are many beautiful details; it’s almost a contest between the art and the house itself. Here are a few…
There’s also a pleasant, if not huge garden, with a cafe overlooking it.
Interior woodwork and railings were a pleasure, too.
Unlike many mansions that have become museums, this one hasn’t lost the family bathroom, and it’s a spectacular one. Not just the fixtures, but the fact that the room itself is the size of most people’s living rooms.
More interior details…
The views from the mansion, and from its outside balconies, offer great views of the city and harbor below.
And, taking his ease in the former kitchen area, here’s a man at leisure.
