Climate change is bringing change to one of France’s most treasured and protected names, Champagne. Shifting conditions in the region may result in more towns in the region being allowed to call their sparkling wines by the name.
At the same time, a number of other municipalities could be “declassified” because they no longer have the proper conditions. Under the plan, subject to a vote next year, some 40 areas would be added, potentially increasing the supply available to the world market.
Areas that are declassified won’t be out of the wine business, not even out of the Champagne business immediately, because vines existing for Champagne production at that point can continue to be cultivated for an additional fifty years.
The AOC, or Appelation Origine Controllé, for Champagne is one of France’s oldest, and is zealously protected by a corps of lawyers against imitators or competitors in France and world-wide. By a quirk of history, it is even recognized in the 1919 Treaty of Versailles.
That’s going to be a big issue throughout wine territory, I think. On my last trip to Alsace, in 2022, the grapes were already maturing a month or so early. Combine that with reports of decent wine areas developing in the UK and even the Netherlands, and we may be in for a wine revolution of sorts!
I’ve been wondering the related issue. As the climate warms, will vineyards move further north for a cooler climate, but will the “terroirs” be comparable for the wine or champagne.