The city of Tomar, Portugal, is a wonderful place to visit. It is a small city, with an interesting history, and tourists have yet to discover it. That means spending time in Tomar offers a deep look into Portugal’s past without the large crowds that can plague major European cities.
Tomar is in the geographic center of the country, about 140 km (85 mi) northeast of Lisbon. Tomar was founded in the 12th century by members of the Knights Templar, and their descendants The Military Order of Christ. It was built to be their headquarters in Portugal, and to control traffic and shipping along the Nabão River. The Templars built a castle on the hill above the river, and later added a monastery. These buildings are the main attractions of Tomar, and Dr. Fumblefinger wrote an excellent blog about his visit to them, which you can read here. But the city is home to many other sights, and I spent my day walking among these small museums and galleries.
Tomar’s Castle and MonasteryMy first stop was at the old Synagogue. Tomar’s Jewish community formed in the 14th century as its members came to work for the Knights Templar. By 1450, it had grown to around 200 people, about 30% of the total population of Tomar. In 1430, construction on the synagogue and its mikvah started, and it served the community until 1496, when the Jewish population was forced to either convert or leave Portugal.
Continuing along Rue Dr. Joaquim Jacinto toward the river, I found the Casa Memoria Lopes-Garça. Fernando Lopes-Garça (1906-1994) was one of Portugal’s preeminent composers, conductors, and musicologists. He was known for incorporating themes taken from tradition Portuguese folk music into classical compositions. He was biracial and a member of Portugal’s Communist Party, yet he managed to thrive during the fascist regime Antonio de Oliveira Salazar.
On the banks of the Nabão River is the Complexo Cultural da Levada. This is a collection of industrial buildings that originally served as olive presses and mills when built in the 13th Century. The buildings were constructed along a canal that provided the power to run their machinery. Today, they house several galleries. The Power Plant is an art gallery and it maintains a collection of machinery from the early 20th century.
The Levada Cultural Complex
The Canal
The Power Plant
Winterthor Diesel EnginThere is also the Templar Interpretation Center. This museum presents a history of of Tomar, from Paleolithic times to the present.
Paleolithic residents of the Nabão River Valley
Further down the river is the Casa dos Cubos, an exhibition and conference center built is an old factory by the architectural firm Embaixada. When I visited, there was an exhibit of photographs by Antonio da Silva Maghalães (1834-1894). Maghalães was the first photographer in the area to use a process called “instant photography.” This allowed him to take pictures without needing a long exposure time. He was able to produce photos there were more life-like and less stilted. He was also able to take pictures of children, who are notoriously fidgety.
Portrait of Women
My last stop of the day was at the Church of Santa Maria do Olival. The church was originally built in the 13th century, and rebuilt during the 16th century. It sits on a hillside, across the river from the old city. It was built to serve as the pantheon or burial site for members of the Knights Templar.
Come to Tomar, and explore Portugal’s history, without the large crowds. It is a good day trip from Lisbon, but it is a great place to stay for a night or two to enjoy the all it offers.
Nuts and Bolts
You can take a train from Lisbon to Tomar. They run about hourly for a fare of €11 each way when purchased at the station.
I also recommend two restaurants in Tomar. First is the Taverna Antiqua, on the city’s main square. It is touristy, and the menu is limited, but the prices run under €20 for main courses. Second is the Brasinha Restaurant, which offers traditional Portuguese steaks and seafood at reasonable prices.
