Where Gumbo Was #357
We first discovered Obernai, a commune in France’s Alsace, when we passed through the customs control office at Strasbourg between Germany and France before the advent of the European Union and open borders. The long traffic buildup at the customs border delayed our plans by quite a bit. So we got off at the Obernai exit immediately after the congested Strasbourg “freeway” towards our desired destination of Colmar.
What a great bit of serendipitous fortune this was, because it turned out to be my wife’s favorite destination in Europe during out 16 years of living outside the USA. Though Obernai is a French commune, it was once annexed by Germany and once occupied and ransomed by Sweden.
And, this week, as our mystery location, it was recognized by PortMoresby and Professor Abe. Congratulations!
Obernai is just such a relaxing place to center an Alsatian adventure. It is close to the top of the Route des Vins (Alsace Wine Route) and is an uncrowded place to center your Alsatian visit. If you enjoy colorful, half-timbered villages, Obernai and the Alsace Region will delight and fascinate you. Obernai is about 15 miles from the Strasbourg Airport at Entzheim by car, or a $50 taxi ride, or $10 train ride.
If you coming from the German A5 Autobahn, get off at the Kehl exit and follow the airport signs through the tricky Strasbourg highways until you reach the A35/E25 turnoff to Obernai/Colmar just past the airport exit. As with many towns, if you visit frequently, you learn about the good hotels, places to eat and best times of the year to go.
The center of Obernai is the Place du Marche main square and the Hotel de la Diligence directly on the square was our initial visit choice. Courteous service and a good view of the square was perfect along with many room and bed configuration choices. There is a large free parking lot (Parking des Ramparts) outside the city walls that I would recommend and is only a two minute walk to the center of town. There are other paid parking lots inside the city walls and a very few no-cost spots usually with a 2-hour time limit if you can find them.
In the main square is the famous Renaissance Puits à Six Seaux (Six Bucket Well) where my Danish grand-daughter wanted to touch the magic water. There is also a beautiful cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul.
In subsequent visits, we eventually relocated to the Santa Maria (aka Odile Hotel) a block from the main square and very close to the free Ramparts parking lot. It was in the quieter pedestrian zone and the restaurant there was terrific. I love escargot and it was so tasty, that I can’t remember a better serving anywhere. They also served delicious brick oven flambee (thin pizza), Bordeaux and local wines by the carafe, and excellent lunch salads all which could be served at indoor or outdoor tables in the pedestrian zone. Rooms were sparse but quiet, comfortable, very reasonably priced and centrally located. If you want a place a little more posh, try the Le Parc Hôtel Obernai & Spa. There is also a number of cafes and bars for nightly outings, some hidden in little colorful alcoves.
First stop for an initial visit is the Tourism Office which is located behind the main square bell tower. There are many short excursions to suit your tastes for wine, pottery, religious sites, nature, and historical subjects. Along the Obernai main square is the Urban Patisserie and Salon de Thé that I would strongly recommend for a breakfast of fresh quiche or baked goods and coffee. Get the window seat for an enjoyable people watch location. My favorite was the leek quiche. On the next block is Schaeffer Chocolatier / Patisserie that has delicious breakfasts and the best eclairs you have ever tasted.
After breakfast and before setting off to our adventures, we would grab some local baguettes, fresh veggies and picnic food at the local produce stand on the main square beside the Hotel de la Diligence. Taking one route behind the village you can climb a steep and winding road up to the Saint Odile Abbey / Convent high above Obernai.
The legend of Saint Odile is that she was born blind in the 7th century to the Duke of Alsace and banished from the family to avoid shame. She was then baptized in Regensburg Germany and her sight was miraculously restored. Her father then brought her back and built the monastery in her honor. Today she is venerated as the patron saint of Alsace and of the blind.
In my opinion, the best time to visit Alsace is in early September. The flower boxes are bursting forth with colorful geraniums and the weather is normally quite mild, plus the primary summer tourist season is over.
Obernai is a fantastic place for local fests and they love to party. Local and grilled foods, historic costumes, music and dancing add to the charm. The costumed village folks will gladly oblige you in photo opportunities.
If you love Christmas markets, another time of year to visit is just after they open up their markets in each picturesque Alsatian village. The sparkling lights, bundled crowds and wafting aromas will definitely put you in the holiday mood.
In Obernai, I encourage you to visit the local pottery and craft shops. Our favorite was the Potterie L’Atelier on Rempart Monseigneur Freppel lane as you drive into town over the train tracks. Dietrich d’Obernai on the main square is packed with Alsatian crafts and bric-a-brac.
Of course, Alsace is known for storks. Besides buying a stork souvenir, you can see the real thing if you avoid the expressway to Colmar and instead take a road trip down the Route des Vins to historical places like Ribeauville, Riquewihr, Kaysersberg and finally Colmar.
If you fail to see storks along the road, you can always visit the Parc à Cigognes (Stork Park) in the village of Eguisheim which is just a couple kilometers south of Colmar.
Along the Route des Vins you will find a number of vineyards where you can stop for wine tasting. We stopped at the Wymann winery, but I heard there is an excellent little winery stop called Cave de Ribeauvillé for free tastings of typical Alsatian wines, like Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Gewurztraminer.
A favorite place of ours to picnic is in the little park at the round-about in Bergheim that has benches, restrooms and trash receptacles. Photo of my wife Diane on one of our picnics there. Though Alsace is famous for wine, the main brewery for Kronenbourg Beer is located in Obernai.
