Saint-Denis, just beyond the northern edge of Paris, is a bit of a paradox, a kaleidoscope of history and society. Its history goes back two thousand years to a Roman camp, its cathedral is home to France’s dead kings, for most of the 20th century it was the ‘capital’ of the Red Belt of left-leaning industrial areas around Paris, and it is home to the Stade de France, the huge stadium.
But it’s also, for decades now, been home to one of the largest proportions of immigrants in the Paris banlieues and in France itself, with a third of the population coming from somewhere else, mostly from areas in Africa once ruled by France. Many more are the children of immigrants, giving the city of 100,000 an unusual character.
And that’s reflected in the city’s vivid and lively central market, which sprawls out into the streets around the huge market hall, and in the variety of foods and goods on sale there. This is not a boutique and chi-chi market; it’s a critical part of the city’s daily life.
The market is at the heart of Saint-Denis. You can stand a block away from the Cathedral and City Hall and find yourself one block away from the edge of the market and also a block away from a street of pleasant cafes serving a very different population.
Over the years, poor housing conditions, a high crime rate and discrimination have given Saint-Denis as reputation as ‘dangerous’ or ‘unpleasant.’ In some parts of the town there are signs of gentrification happening. Welcomed by some, it could also mean loss of familiar neighborhoods for others.
But the market. If the grand market hall looks a bit familiar, it won’t surprise you to know that its design was the work of Victor Baltard, the architect and engineer who built the now-vanished Les Halles in Paris in similar style.
The market hall is occupied by 70 or so stands selling fresh and prepared foods reflecting a wide variety of traditions and origins. It’s officially the busiest market in the Ile-de-France region and among the busiest in France.
Markets in Saint-Denis have a long tradition. The Lendit Fair, started in the 1100s was one of France’s most important commercial trading events each year. The present market was established by Saint-Denis in 1891 and opened in 1893. It got a major renovation in 2005.
Outside, the stands spill into Place Jean Jaures and nearby streets. There’s some food there, but the focus in the streets is on clothing, personal goods, and housewares; there are even some booths where repairs are offered for appliances and clothing.
Saint-Denis is worth a visit, and recent additions to the Paris region’s transit systems have made it easier than ever. Aside from regional rail lines, there are now tram connections to nearby towns. For most people visiting Paris, though, Metro Line 13 is the best choice.
The Cathedral and the market are both at the station Basilicque de Saint-Denis. For the Saint-Denis Museum, which showcases the history of the city and the former abbey that houses it as well as the Paris Commune, the Porte-de-Paris station is closest.
Congrats to George G, who recognized the market as our One-Clue Mystery!
