Luxembourg City: A Perfect Blend of Old and New

Nestled in the heart of Europe, the small country of Luxembourg is the last remaining grand duchy in the world, a designation that means it is a sovereign state ruled by a grand duke. Often overlooked by travellers, its capital, Luxembourg City, exudes a unique charm that should not be missed. With a rich history, stunning architecture, and picturesque landscapes, the city effortlessly combines old-world charm with modern sophistication.

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We made a spontaneous diversion here while travelling from France to the Netherlands by train. We stayed at the conveniently located Hotel Christophe Colomb, just 500 metres from the railway station.

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Luxembourg is one of four cities where the European Union institutions are based, the other three being Brussels, Strasbourg and Frankfurt. The city boasts a rich history dating back to Roman times, evident in its well-preserved medieval architecture and UNESCO-listed Old Town, a maze of narrow cobblestone streets lined with picture-perfect houses and interspersed with cosy cafes and boutiques.

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Pictured above is the Grand Ducal Palace, a striking architectural masterpiece and the official residence of the Grand Duke. The palace is not open to visitors for much of the year – last year it was open only in August plus a few days in July and September – but the surrounding Place Guillaume II provides an excellent vantage point to admire its grandeur.

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The Bock Casemates is a network of underground tunnels and galleries carved into the city’s cliffs and completed by Austrian engineers in the 18th century. Originally constructed as a fortress, the casemates served as shelter for soldiers and citizens during times of conflict. Today they provide a fascinating glimpse into Luxembourg’s military history, allowing visitors to wander through the dimly lit passages of this ancient defensive structure, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1994.

The Bock Casemates are open every day from 10.45am to 3.00pm and the entrance is at Montée de Clausen. Adult entry costs €8.00 with discounts for children, students and seniors.

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St. Michael’s Church, with its Gothic architecture and beautiful stained glass windows, is a must-visit attraction for those seeking a glimpse into the city’s religious heritage.

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Kirchberg is a modern district that serves as the city’s financial and administrative hub. The European Court of Justice and the European Investment Bank are located here, contributing to the city’s status as a key player in European affairs.

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Don’t miss the opportunity to visit the Philharmonie Luxembourg, an architectural marvel and a cultural hotspot. This state-of-the-art concert hall hosts a diverse array of performances, from classical symphonies to contemporary music, making it a magnet for music enthusiasts.

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The Mudam Luxembourg – Musée d’Art Moderne Grand-Duc Jean – is another testament to the city’s commitment to contemporary arts. This avant-garde museum showcases an impressive collection of modern and contemporary art, housed in a building designed by renowned architect I M Pei.

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Luxembourg City’s natural beauty is equally impressive. The Pétrusse and Alzette Rivers carve through the city, creating picturesque valleys and gorges. Above, you can stroll along the Chemin de la Corniche, often referred to as Europe’s most beautiful balcony, for stunning views of the Old Town, the city district of Grund and the winding rivers below.

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The Corniche was originally part of the city’s fortifications and was built by the Spaniards and the French in the 17th century. It runs along the Alzette valley on the ramparts from the Bock Promontory up to the lower part of the Holy Ghost Citadel, known as ‘Rondellen’.

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The Grande-Duchesse Charlotte bridge is the largest bridge in the capital. It links the city centre to the European district on the Kirchberg plateau and is 355 metres long.

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It is commonly known as the Red Bridge (Rout Bréck) in reference to its colour. However, it is officially named in honour of the Grand Duchess Charlotte of Luxembourg, who inaugurated the bridge in 1966.

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Probably the best-known bridge is the Pont Adolphe, with its network of arches spanning across the 50-metre-deep Pétrusse valley. Named after Grand Duke Adolphe, the bridge was built in the early 20th century and used to be the longest arched bridge in the world.

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Luxembourg’s culinary scene reflects its multicultural influences, combining French, German and Belgian flavours. Place d’Armes, located in the heart of the Old Town, is a vibrant square surrounded by cafes and restaurants, making it an excellent place to savour local delicacies like Judd mat Gaardebounen – smoked pork collar with broad beans, sometimes called the national dish – or Gromperekichelcher, Luxembourgish potato fritters.

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For a more refined dining experience, visitors can explore the restaurants in Grund, the lower part of the city. Here, along the riverside, you’ll find establishments offering gourmet cuisine in a romantic and atmospheric setting. Luxembourg City’s dining options cater to a variety of tastes, ensuring that every visitor can savour the city’s culinary diversity.

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Accommodation options range from luxurious hotels to charming boutique guesthouses, catering to various preferences and budgets. Whether you choose to stay in the historical Old Town, the modern Kirchberg district or somewhere in between, you’ll find accommodations that provide a comfortable and memorable experience.

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Luxembourg City is served by an efficient public transport system including buses, trains and a tourist train. Since February 2020 all public transport throughout Luxembourg has been free for both residents and visitors, except for first-class travel. Luxembourg Airport (previously called Findel Airport) serves as the main gateway for international travellers.

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However, as mentioned earlier we arrived by train and we left the same way heading for Brussels. The journey took less than three hours and reinforced our view that the train is the best way to travel across Europe.

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7 months ago

Terrific post on a terrific city!  Brought back some nice memories.

7 months ago

A very interesting and historic place to visit.  Visited twice.  First time it was snowing so hard when my wife and I visited, that we had to use a rain umbrella to keep from becoming a snowman or snow woman. Photo from the second visit without the snow.

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