If travelling to Crete, whether by air or ferry, you will most likely arrive at bustling Heraklion and stay there for a few days. On our last trip there we travelled by ferry from Santorini on a rough, windswept sea, arriving very late and close to midnight. Happily, the Lato Boutique Hotel handled our late arrival with aplomb and we were soon settled in.
Heraklion is the capital and largest city of Crete and one of Greece’s major urban centres. The city was subjected to various multicultural influences over the centuries including, in ancient times, those of the occupying Romans and Arabs and later the Venetians and Turks, resulting in an abundance of Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman structures in Heraklion and elsewhere on the island.
In 1669 Crete was conquered by the Ottoman Empire, bringing to an end the 465-year Venetian occupation of the island, which had been a prosperous period for Crete. A century-and-a-half later, in 1821, Crete took part in the Greek War of Independence and while the majority of Greece seceded, Crete did not. The lack of supplies and the large number of Turks and Turko-Cretans on the island restricted its ability to gain independence.
A significant thoroughfare in Heraklion is 25 August Street, which runs from Saint Mark’s Square down to the port. It can be seen on the right in the picture above. Along it are the Agios Titos Cathedral, the Loggia and the Basilica of Saint Mark. The street is named after a massacre on 25 August 1897, when Turkish fanatics rampaged through the city, slaughtering about 500 Christians and 17 British soldiers and damaging buildings and monuments along the street.
This act of violence hastened negotiations for the union of Crete with the rest of Greece and the removal of the Turkish forces from the island. Crete was finally integrated into the Greek state on 1 December 1913.
Photo: Nanto/Pixabay
25 August Street is now a paved pedestrian street and boasts the most beautiful Neoclassical buildings in Heraklion. At the end of the street and in the parallel alleyway of Agios Dimitrios are ouzeri (ouzo bars) serving delicious mezze platters.
The city’s landmark is the 16th-century Koules fortress on the westernmost side of the old Venetian port, together with the fortification walls which date back to the same period.
In the heart of the city there are many monuments dating back to the Middle Ages, a period in which Heraklion witnessed great prosperity. From the port it’s a short walk along 25 August Street to the Agios Titos Cathedral. Agios Titos was the first Bishop of Crete and the church was dedicated to him to strengthen Christianity on the island.
The original church of Agios Titos was most likely built in AD 961 by the Byzantine Emperor Nicephorus Phokas. He liberated Crete from the Arabs and restored it as part of the Byzantine Empire.
The current cathedral was constructed in 1869 as the Yeni Cami (New Mosque) after the previous building was destroyed by the 1856 earthquake. During the Turkish occupation, it became a mosque named Vezir. In 1925 it was converted back to Christian worship.
Photo: G Da/Wikimedia Commons
Next to it is the 16th-century Loggia or city hall, an ornate Venetian building that served as a meeting place for the duke and other noblemen during the Venetian period.
Don’t miss Heraklion’s Venetian and Turkish fountains, scattered around the city. The most famous one is the 17th-century Venetian-style Μorosini fountain (also known as the Lions fountain), a landmark for locals and visitors alike.
Heraklion has excellent museums and one of the largest aquariums in Europe. And for history buffs, without doubt the most fascinating ancient treasure of the region lies just beyond the city limits. Knossos Palace wasn’t just the most important centre of Minoan civilisation but it was the home of the legendary Minotaur and its labyrinth.
Photo: Pat/Pixabay
In the city centre, the Archaeological Museum is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The exhibits include representative samples from all periods of Cretan history, covering 5,500 years. The most famous frescoes of Knossos Palace are housed here, including the Bull Leaper, Prince of the Lilies, the Saffron Gatherer, Ladies in Blue and La Parisienne.
The Heraklion Markets refers to the city’s several marketplaces and retail locations, each offering a distinct experience. The central market complex is an essential element of the cultural and gastronomic character of the city. The food market is where you will find a wide range of products as well as traditional Cretan ones such the famous Cretan olive oil, raki, local wine, honey and herbs.
Photos © Judy Barford except where otherwise credited
