We stopped off at this interesting town while travelling from Ljubljana to Lake Bled on a tour. It’s only 23 kilometres north-west of the capital so it could also be explored as a self-contained day trip. Škofja Loka is one of the oldest towns in Slovenia, with a history that goes back to the 10th century. It was then enclosed by stone walls and could only be entered through one of its five gated towers, but little can be seen of these today.
Škofja Loka is raffishly attractive although a little down-at-heel in places. According to our guide, the town was simply called Loka originally – a name associated with a grassy area near water – but there were lots of other Lokas in Slovenia so Škofja was added, creating a name which translates literally to ‘Bishop’s Meadow’. Today the town has a population of about 12,000.
Škofja Loka lies at the confluence of the Poljanska Sora and Selska Sora rivers and is a magnet for travellers with its cobbled streets, historical architecture and serene natural beauty. However, it was exceptionally quiet on the day we were there, but visitors must come in greater numbers as the town even has its own tourist information center.
The main attraction is the well-preserved old town standing on river terraces and featuring two distinct squares, a lower square and the upper Town Square. The old town was declared a National Cultural Monument in 1987.
Loka Castle. Photo: Petar Milošević/Wikimedia Commons
Overlooking the town is Loka Castle, which dates back to the early 13th century and contains one of Slovenia’s most impressive museum collections. These include Fine Art of the Second Half of the 20th Century and the 21st Century, a permanent collection featuring artworks by artists associated with Škofja Loka and its surroundings. It provides insight into the artistic expressions of the local community during this period.
Then there is Art History Collection from the 19th Century and the First Half of the 20th Century. Located on the first floor of the museum, here you’ll find art from the 19th-century realism and modernist paintings from the early 20th century. This collection showcases key figures in Slovenian art history associated with Škofja Loka.
There is also a medieval art collection with replicas of Gothic frescoes from local churches. Notably, there’s a replica of the Holy Sunday fresco from the Church of the Annunciation in Crngrob.
The chapel within the castle boasts four exquisite golden Baroque altars. These altars were originally from the pilgrimage Church of Saint Lucy in Dražgoše and they depict saints including Saint Lucy herself. The intricate carvings and frescoes in the chapel offer a glimpse into the 17th-century local carver’s trade.
Schlosskapelle altar. Photo: Rollroboter/Wikimedia Commons
From the castle and other vantage points around the town you can see across the verdant countryside to the snowcapped mountains of the Slovenian Alps in the distance. Back down in the town we walked across the 14th century Capuchin Bridge over the Selska Sora River.
We then strolled through the town's charming old town centre, where colourful facades and intricately adorned churches line the cobblestone streets. The Church of Saint Jacob, which can be seen on the left in the picture of the lower square below, is a Gothic masterpiece adorned with exquisite frescoes and ornate altars. Its tower can be seen in the photos that follow.
We also rambled along the banks of the Selska Sora River, which meanders through the heart of Škofja Loka. This is a popular spot for picnics by the water's edge, and you can even rent a kayak and paddle your way downstream for a unique perspective of the town and its surroundings.
If you have time you can leave the town centre and venture into the pristine wilderness that surrounds Škofja Loka. The Škofja Loka Hills, part of the Julian Alps, offer endless opportunities for outdoor recreation, from hiking and mountain biking to skiing and snowshoeing in the winter months. You can explore scenic trails that wind through lush forests and past tranquil rivers, up to panoramic viewpoints where you can take in the far-reaching vistas of the Slovenian countryside.
Because our visit was just a short stop on the way to somewhere else, we didn’t have time to take any decent photos of the castle or explore the museum. It takes only 30 minutes to drive from Ljubljana to Škofja Loka, so if you happen to be staying in the capital for a few days I would recommend taking a day trip, or at least half a day, to see this attractive town properly. If you don’t have a car there is also a frequent bus service with the Arriva company, and I’m told there’s a train as well.
That way you would also have time to sample some of the region’s delectable culinary offerings. Indulge in hearty Slovenian fare at one of the town's bucolic taverns or elegant restaurants, where you can savour traditional dishes such as potica (a sweet nut roll), žlikrofi (dumplings filled with potato and herbs), and jota (a hearty bean soup). Wash it all down with a glass of locally produced wine or schnapps for a true taste of Slovenian hospitality.
You can also visit local markets and family-owned farms, and for a truly immersive culinary experience you can even join a cooking class or food tour, where you can learn the secrets of Slovenian cuisine from local chefs and artisans.
Photos © Judy Barford except where otherwise credited
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