When in Milan, most travelers are drawn to its beautiful cathedral, with good reason. Today I’d like to bring to your attention another interesting church not far from that cathedral.
A Brief History of Sant’Ambrogio Basilica
Sant’Ambrogio Basilica is Milan’s oldest church, originally built on the outskirts of the city but with centuries of growth it’s now near the heart of Milan. The church was originally built in the fourth century, between 379 and 386. It was commissioned by St. Ambrose, beloved bishop to Milan in the 4th century. That church has been replaced by the current building, which has portions dating from the 9th and 10th centuries, although most of it was built in the 11th and 12th century, when it assumed its current Romanesque style.
In August 1943, the Allied bombings damaged portions of the basilica, which have since been repaired.
Highlights of a visit to the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio
We walked to the Basilica from our condo rental in Milan, enjoy the ever-changing street scenes. When you approach the church, you are impressed by its two towers (of unequal length). As you enter you find:
The Atrium: A spacious atrium welcomes you before you enter the nave of the basilica, surrounded on either side by arched colonnades.
Spend some time exploring the space and enjoy some of the artistic details in the structure, like the carvings shown below:
The door that leads into the basilica is also worth a closer look as its details are interesting….
As you enter, you find a nave which is spacious. The most interesting features of Sant’Ambrogio Basilica are at the opposite end of the church, so we made our way there.
The Ciborium: The ciborium is characterized by four tall pillars dating back to Roman times. At the top of the columns is an arch, the side facing the nave showing Jesus and the apostles Peter and Paul.
(Ciborium over the golden altar)
The Ciborium covers a beautiful golden Altar. It was donated to the basilica by the bishop Angilbertus in the first half of the ninth century. The side of the altar facing the nave is covered with gold foil, while the other sides are covered with silver and gold. The golden side has details from the life of Jesus and the opposite side has scenes from St. Ambrose’s life.
(the Altar)
Behind the Ciborium is an old apse mosaic depicting Christ the Redeemer between two Saints (Gervasio and Protasio). This mosaic may date to the 8th century.
If you turn left from the altar you’ll see a 12th century Pulpit overlying the Sarcophagus of Stilicho…..
The sarcophagus dates to the late Roman/ early Christian times and has impressive reliefs that decorate its walls. They are said to depict Jesus and the apostles, Adam and Eve, Moses, among others. The sarcophagus is thought to have belonged to the church from its founding.
(Sarcophagus of Stilicho)
A photo of the Sarcophagus of Stilicho (see below) was used in last weekend’s One Clue Mystery photo. It was recognized by Professor Abe and George G — congratulations to both!
(One Clue Mystery Photo)
In the central nave, on top of a column of porphyry, is a bronze serpent which legend says was forged in the desert by Moses to defend his people from snakebites. I’m a little skeptical of this, but thought I’d share the story.
There are many other features to the basilica, including a number of side chapels….
A statue of Saint Ambrose…..
And other interesting features….
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If you visit
Entrance to the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio is free. The church is open Monday to Saturday 10 a.m. to 12 p.m., and 2.30 p.m. to 6 p.m. and on Sundays it opens from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m.
Well worth exploring!
