The Australian rural landscape is dotted with towns and villages no doubt held dear by their residents, but of limited appeal to visitors. But every so often you come across a place that stands out from the crowd for one reason or another and here I look at one of them, a truly interesting – and largely unknown to outsiders – small town in the state of South Australia.
The town is notable because it is at the crossroads of main highways running east-west from Sydney to Perth and south-north from Adelaide to Darwin, and it is very close to Goyder’s Line, which was the limit of productive land in South Australia.
Orroroo is located 273 km north of the South Australian capital, Adelaide, and 100 km south-east of Port Augusta. A town of around 600 people, it’s on the southern edge of the Flinders Ranges in an area that is largely dry and barren. We travelled through here some years ago when we had a motorhome.
The town is steeped in history, with its roots dating back to the 1800s when it served as a vital stopover for pioneers and miners en route to the Flinders Ranges. The Orroroo Museum is housed in the former railway station and provides a fascinating insight into the town’s heritage, with tales of pioneering families and the region’s mining history.
The red bridge is the remnants of a railway that opened in the late 19th century and went from Carrieton to Peterborough via Orroroo. The bridge is all that remains of the line.
Orroroo boasts several landmarks that are worth exploring, each with its own unique story. A good place to start your journey is the Orroroo War Memorial, an evocative tribute to those who served their country. From here you get a good view of the town and the surrounding countryside.
Solly’s Hut is an early settler’s cottage and was one of the first buildings constructed in Orroroo. It was bought from the surveyor-general on 13 May 1880 by one Henry Solly.
Photo: Visit Orroroo
The cottage is an early example of a clay pug-and-pine cottage. Solly was originally from the Clare Valley and at the age of 49 moved to Orroroo with his second wife and child number nine.
The cottage has been restored to its original condition and is furnished with simple household effects of the period. It can be viewed by appointment made with the local Visitor Information Centre.
The 1,200-kilometre Heysen Trail passes near here. It is the longest dedicated walking trail in Australia, running from the northern trailhead at Parachilna in the Flinders Ranges to the southern trailhead at Cape Jervis on the Fleurieu Peninsula, and is named in honour of famed Australian landscape artist, Sir Hans Heysen.
This magnificent example of a river red gum is estimated to be more than 500 years old. It is 10.4 metres or 34 feet in circumference, and it climbs 6 metres or 20 feet before there is a fork in the trunk.
Goyder’s Line: A geographical phenomenon
Beyond its historical significance, Orroroo is also known for its connection to Goyder’s Line, a geographical boundary that marks the limit of reliable rainfall in South Australia. This line, named after surveyor-general George Woodroffe Goyder, separates areas suitable for agriculture from those prone to drought.
At the Orroroo Lookout you can witness firsthand the stark contrast between the fertile lands of the Flinders Ranges and the arid plains to the west and gain a deeper understanding of the challenges faced by early settlers.
Monument depicting GW Goyder leading his horse.
It was Goyder who officially named the town when he surveyed it in September 1875. However, the local First Nations people, the Ngadjuri, originally called the area ‘Oorooroo’ (note the subtle difference in the spelling of this word compared with the established name of the town) but to this day no one is sure what the word meant. At least nine possible meanings are offered, the most intriguing of which is ‘rendezvous of the magpie’.
Local culture and festivals
Orroroo is a welcoming community that takes pride in its cultural traditions. A highlight is the nearby Carrieton Rodeo, where professional cowboys showcase their remarkable skills in bull riding and bronco busting. The event began in 1953 and is one of the largest rodeos in South Australia. It takes place annually in December. The rodeo features some of the best riders in Australia and attracts thousands of people from all over the country.
Photo: Visit Orroroo
There are a few places to sample local fare in Orroroo’s main street, where there is a limited choice of cafes and restaurants and a couple of decent pubs that celebrate the region’s rich agricultural heritage. From hearty country-style meals to gourmet delights, the town offers something to suit every palate. There are prime cuts of meat, organic vegetables and award-winning wines that reflect the unique terroir of the Flinders Ranges.
For those seeking further adventure, Orroroo serves as an ideal base to explore the sprawling landscapes of the nearby Flinders Ranges. Here you can embark on a scenic drive or a challenging hike to witness the ancient geological formations and rugged beauty of this notable Australian landmark.
For overseas visitors and even Australian interstate visitors Orroroo is not a place to which you would make a special trip. But if you’re ever in the Flinders Ranges area of South Australia, be sure to check it out.
Photos © Judy Barford except where otherwise credited
