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Fontaine des Innocents, Paris

 

Like every ancient monument, there's a story behind this imposing fountain, but in this case it's a little more complicated than you might expect. The Fontaine des Innocents is on its second name and third location in its nearly 500 years; it's the oldest monumental fountain in Paris.

FontaineDesInnocents(detail) dadaDada/Wikimedia Commons

It was originally built as part of the decoration of Paris for the official arrival of King Henri II in 1549. The other imposing monuments in that project were temporary, but this one, built over the remains of a 12th century fountain, was built to last.

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Originally the fountain was mounted in a large building with spigots along the base and a viewing loggia at the top for the officials welcoming the king. After the procession it continued as a neighborhood water source, called Fountain of the Nymphs for the sculptures on its facade. The upper floor was turned into a residence.

800px-Goujon1Original in Louvre; image by Shizhao/Wikimedia Commons

The Fountain of the Innocents name comes from the ancient cemetery against whose wall it was built; when the cemetery was cleared in 1787 and turned into the Marché des Innocents, the fountain faced demolition, but was rebuilt as a free-standing fountain after what must be one of the earliest urban preservation campaigns.

Fontaine_des_Innocents_reliefs._Louvre,_ParisOriginals in Louvre; image from Brooklyn Museum Collections

That's when it got its present form. It was moved to the center of the new market, and placed on the stone pedestal with the descending water basins and four lions. You can see it in the background of this scene when France's constitution was proclaimed in the market in 1791, and in a fuller view of the market in 1855.

1024px-French_constitution_proclamation_1791800px-Marché_des_Innocents,_1855

That wasn't the end of the fountain's wanderings; the Marché des Innocents was closed in 1858 as part of the construction of the famed Les Halles markets and most of its open land repurposed for buildings. The fountain was shifted to its present location in Place Joachim-du-Bellay, also called Place des Innocents.

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The best part of every trip is realizing that it has upset your expectations

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