Geddington: At a Crossroad of History

These days, Geddington is a small village of stone-built houses, many with thatched roofs in a quiet corner of Northamptonshire, big enough to have two pubs, but not big enough for a village shop. But in the 13th century it was a favorite of kings who hunted in the Forest of Rockingham.

It’s also home to the Geddington Cross, one of a dozen built by Edward I in memory of his wife, Eleanor of Castile. When she died in Nottinghamshire in 1290, her body was taken to London on a 21-day procession with the king walking the entire 200-mile distance; at each of twelve overnight stops Edward had a cross erected. Geddington’s is one of three survivors and the best-preserved.

The cross, built above a spring, includes statues of the queen in various roles: praying, studying and more. Eleanor and Edward are said to have been close and she played a powerful role in his court—as well as being known for her sharp real estate deals and role in the expulsion of Jews from England.

The royal residence, where King John I is said to have drafted his response to Magna Carta, was frequently used by Edward and Eleanor and is where Edward stayed on the funeral procession, is long gone. But, there is still a King’s Door that led to it in the ancient Church of St Mary Magdalene, just across the road from the cross. It’s an incredibly ancient church: the earliest parts date to 850 and the most recent to the 13th century.

Two exceptions to the age of the church: A 19th-century organ and stained glass includes windows designed by Sir Ninian Comper, a noted Gothic Revival architect who also designed many 19th and 20th century windows for Westminster Abbey.

In the churchyard stands another cross, this one a memorial to local residents who served in the two World Wars.

Aside from a constant need for funds to maintain the ancient building, there are other issues faced by the parish…

A block or so from the cross and the church is another Geddington feature: a five-arched stone bridge crossing the River Ise. Between the arches, it has three triangular recesses for pedestrians to stand while the wagons of ancient days and the cars of today pass by.

Next to the bridge, a ford crosses the river. I started from the assumption that the ford was more ancient even than the bridge and was surprised to learn that it was a 20th-century addition to accommodate modern wide vehicles without having to rebuild the bridge.