One of the benefit’s of less planning and more wandering is finding places that seem to have been missed by the guidebooks. The Heritage House is one of those, although I now see my Lonely Planet Vietnam guide is almost as ancient as the house, printed the same year it was restored, so you very well may find it listed in newer additions.
Located in Phố cổ Hà Nội – Hanoi Old Quarter or 36 Streets, one street for each of the city’s 13th century guilds, I stumbled upon the house on a busy street one day during the 3 weeks I spent in Hanoi and couldn’t resist going in. Also referred to as Ancient House or Old House, the sign over the door at 87 Ma May Street is translated to read Heritage House. The street name, Ma May, means Rattan, and was once located on the banks of a busy river harbor. How things change, even geography.
Built in the late 19th century, it’s a beautiful example of a classic Vietnamese trader’s house. Built for 1 family and their business, in 1945 it was taken over by the government and partitioned to become home for 5 families. One of few remaining intact buildings of its era, in 1999 it was the first such renovation in Hanoi’s Old Quarter to be opened for the public to enjoy the quickly disappearing traditional-style architecture. It’s filled with antique furniture and decorative accents and artists creating items to sell.
On 2 levels, the house is actually 3 buildings with courtyards between them. It occupies a narrow frontage on the street, but the 2 stories, with views to the outside from windows and balconies over the street and courtyards, give it an open and much larger feel than one might expect in a house in the congested center of a busy city. It’s a fascinating building, one of those small sights often missed, and I recommend it to anyone who visits Hanoi.
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