Most large cities have a place where the crowds gather automatically or by arrangement for big events—celebrations, demonstrations, markets and the like. Times Square, Piccadilly Circus, the Zocalo, Red Square, the names are familiar. In Munich, for nearly 900 years, it’s been Marienplatz.
It’s tempting to describe it as ‘the huge square in front of Munich’s City Hall,’ but actually it’s been there far longer than either the Old or New Rathaus, which both face it. It was set aside for markets and gatherings in 1158; only the St Peter Church, the ‘Alte Peter,’ on one edge dates back that far.
The Neues Rathaus’s final section under construction around 1907, with the tower and Glockenspiel yet to be built.
In the area surrounding it, within only a couple of blocks each way, are the famous Viktualienmarkt for food, all of the city’s most famous old churches, and the elaborate sham that is the Neues Rathaus, or New City Hall. It’s a sham because while it appears to be an ancient mainly-Gothic structure of huge proportions, it’s actually a 19th-century building completed only in 1908.
Above, the older part of the Neues is visible at back left in 1900; the buildings in the foreground of the picture were removed to make way for construction. And below that, the building today, in all its (false) medieval glory.
Marienplatz around 1860, before the Neues Rathaus was started
Even the Altes Rathaus, a few steps away is younger than the square by 150 years; it served until 1877, when city government moved next door and left it as a ceremonial venue, with its Grand Hall as the backdrop for events both grand and ominous. That’s where Goebbels gave the November 9, 1938 speech that touched off the Kristalnacht pogrom.
Below, it appears as part of the group of spires that include several churches at the edge of the square.
While we were in Munich in September, we visited several museums that reminded us of the city’s role as the cradle of the Nazi Party, and we realized we were only days away from the 80th anniversary of the appeasement agreement of 1938 that allowed Hitler to begin seizing Czechoslovakia. Finding this image of the attempted Nazi ‘Beer Hall Putsch’ attempt to seize power in 1923 was a chilling reminder that peaceful Marienplatz was not always so.
More recently, it has been the background for many other protests and activities; while we were there we witnessed both anti-immigration and anti-racism demonstrations in front of the Rathaus. And here’s a bigger one, from 2008, when a mass movement against expansion of Munich’s airport led to huge demonstrations. The third runway was eventually defeated in a referendum, reinstated by a court and has been tied up in litigation since.
But the biggest crowds to gather in Marienplatz with any regularity these days are those who come for the daily display of the Rathaus Glockenspiel, which plays out two animated stories from Munich’s history to the accompaniment of a musical machine. The 12-to-15 minute performance runs twice a day, with extra shows in summer. Even in the rain it draws a good crowd, but my pictures from that day have raindrops on the lens!
Time for a note. About time. Public clocks on important buildings often get lovingly elaborate treatments, or are impressive just for their size. Around Marienplatz there are a number of them, including this one on the Neues Rathaus tower. But the Altes has a claim, too: it’s old enough to have started out with a vertical sundial; its clock was added later.
Both of the City Halls were damaged in World War II bombing, as were about 50% of the buildings in the city. Extensive restoration work had the odd effect of making the Altes Rathaus look newer than the Neues. This is a newspaper image from mid-1945
Marienplatz got its name 1638, nearly 500 years in. The name, which mean’s Mary’s Square, came from the golden statue of the Virgin Mary erected in the square to celebrate the end of Munich’s occupation by the Swedish Army. Yes, I know it’s hard to follow the players without a scorecard.
The exterior of the Neues Rathaus is richly decorated with statues of various figures from Bavarian and Munich history, helping maintain the fiction of being an ancient heritage.
If the outside seems spectacular, and ancient, the interior maintains the tone. The building is a huge block with open courtyards at the center, complete with bays, towers and replicas of medieval fortifications.
The building is also home to the Rathauskeller, in the basement, which is not surprising since it means City Hall Basement. Although, like the building, it’s just over 100 years old, it follows the model of other, older and more famous beer halls. And the meal was delicious.
The Rathauskeller is not, of course, the only nearby food. In addition to the Viktualienmarkt, which has its own beer garden, there’s an ad hoc one set up in Marienplatz some afternoons, and sometimes with music as well.
As you might expect, Marienplatz draws buskers as well, some playing music, some juggling, and this one playing himself in dramatic tableaus. When he’s not taking a break from center stage to catch a quick bite. More about him and his ‘living paintings’ at pinturaviva.de
But living paintings are not the only artwork and street furniture around Marienplatz; there are two interesting fountains along with all the statuary. The best-known is the Fischbrunnen, or Fish Fountain. The one we see today is a 1954 replacement, using some of the figures from the 1866 version that was destroyed during the war.
The 1866 fountain, seen here, replaced a fountain with a history going back 500 years. When Munich’s first waterpipe, bringing clean water into the city was laid, the fountain in the marketplace was its only outlet.
The statue below, appearing to be the victim of repeated sexual assault, is actually meant to represent Juliet of Romeo and Juliet. It was given to Munich by Verona when they became twin cities. Verona may have made out better; they got a lovely fountain you can see here.
Munich has recently embarked on a plan to equip many of its ornamental fountains with drinking water sources; this one, the Kräutlmarktbrunnen, or Herb Market Spring, was one of the first.
And two more pictures, the first showing the Christmas Market that blossoms on the square before the winter holidays, and one I just can’t leave out of any Munich blog: the ubiquitous Bavarian pretzel, this one on a stand selling, no surprise, pretzels.
There’s a lot to see in Munich, even without leaving the central quarters of the city: Museums, parks, monuments, factories and more. But no matter: Sooner or later, you’ll end up with the crowds in Marienplatz!
Wikimedia Commons photos:
Airport demonstration: Alex Dworsky
Chistmas Market: Remessas
On my only visit to Munich, a couple of hours between trains, I had Marienplatz to myself at dawn as I walked through looking for a place open for breakfast. So for those wanting to avoid the crowds you mention, that’s the time.