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Metropolitan Cathedral, Santiago, Chile

 

Every great city needs an impressive cathedral, it seems, even if the odds sometimes seem set against it. That's certainly the case in Santiago, Chile, whose present cathedral stands where its five predecessors were destroyed, one by one, by earthquake and fire.

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The cathedral we see now was built between 1748 and 1780, and extensively renovated in the late 19th century, when the two towers were added. The 1748 design was the work of Italian architect Joaquin Toesca.

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The towers were the work of another Italian, Ignacio Cremonesi, who also covered the interior stone walls with stucco that was then painted in false marble. And that paintwork is one of the most impressive immediate sites on entering the building.

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Despite all the changes, the location at the corner of the Plaza de Armas, has stayed the same. The first church was put there in 1541 when Pedro de Valdivia founded the city and laid out the Plaza as the center.

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Before we entered, we had an experience unmatched in any other church we've visited: two young men stationed outside, offering free hugs. No prayer, no collection, no speech: just big smiles and hugs. Felt good, in many ways.

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Inside, an unusual font; the hands are the conduit for water to enter the bowl.

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Off to one side, the entrance to a museum of religious art.

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Beautiful stained glass...these are only samples.

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A very elaborate altar and pulpit (above) and more scenes below.

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And a view into the courtyard.DSC01555

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The best part of every trip is realizing that it has upset your expectations

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