Paris is a city littered with famous churches, many with unique distinctions. Saint-Germain-des-Près is the oldest, Notre Dame the largest, many call Sainte-Chapelle the most beautiful.
But only one, completed just over a hundred years ago can claim to be the most visible church in Paris: Sacre Coeur, bright white, tall and standing on the highest point of Paris, the top of Montmartre. It’s almost impossible to not see it.
It can also claim to be one of the most controversial and political. The proposal to build it came, the day the Third Republic was declared in 1870, from a bishop who proposed it as an apology for “a century of moral decline” since the Revolution. By the time the National Assembly approved the plan in 1873, the purpose had become to “expiate the crimes of the Commune.”
The view over the city from the terrace is famous, but if it’s not enough for you, 292 steep steps will take you to the top of the tower. I didn’t go…
For many in Paris, that was just fuel added to the fire, where memories were still strong of the bloody repression of the workers’ Commune, and the particular spot chosen at the top of Montmartre was taken by many as salt in the wounds because it was both the center of the repression, and the place where earlier the Archbishop of Paris had been killed.
One way or another, it eventually became a monument to 58,000 French soldiers killed in the 1870 war with Germany, and despite wide opposition, funds were raised and construction began in 1884. Paul Abadie, who designed it in a sort of Romano-Byzantine style, new to Paris at the time, died soon after, and five architects later, in 1914 it was completed, but not dedicated until 1919.
But it was in use long before that; Almost as soon as an enclosed room existed a continual “adoration of the Eucharist” service began, and has never stopped, not even for wars. As a result, unlike other churches, there’s never a time to visit without a service going on. It may also be the reason photography in the church is forbidden, but I didn’t learn about the ban until after my visit!
Interior spaces are generous and impressive; with modern construction removing the need for many stone pillars, that was possible. It also allows for a variety of impressive views of the artwork. Interestingly, despite the very traditional interior forms of the building, much of the artwork reflects its own 20th century origins.
1930s mosaics from the Gaudin workshops adorn some of the smaller side chapels.
Some more views of the impressive interior spaces…
The organ has an interesting history: It was built by the great 19th-century French organ-builder Cavaille-Coll for a wealthy French baron who already had two Cavaille-Coll organs, and then sold to Sacre Coeur in 1903. It is a copy of what Cavaille-Coll considered his best concert organ, which was built for Albert Hall in Sheffield, England in 1873.
Sacre Coeur’s stained glass is also, obviously, of relatively recent origin, not only because of how new the building is. Some windows were destroyed or damaged in World War II, and have been either restored or replaced. In these pictures you can see some modern styles; there are also several that appear to have been influenced by the geometric styles of Piet Mondrian, though I didn’t see them.
And some more views of the mosaics and sculpture.
Now, of course, we come to the money part. Although Sacre Coeur has fewer donation boxes than many—and this is a very impressive one—there are two giftshops, one on the right and the other on the left, of the area where the religious services are ongoing.
And if you want a less serious souvenir, there are vending machines to sell you the souvenir medal of your choice…
And saved for last…after my visit, I took the funicular to the bottom of the hill and spent a pleasant half hour sitting in the Square (yes, not Place) Louise Michel watching parents and children enjoying a warm August day and a carousel, down below the hill. Somehow, that made it look less out of place.
