The Alsatian wine route or route des vins d’Alsace in north-eastern France has over time been adapted for tourists, but the villages still show their ancient history. However, the official claim that they haven’t changed much in centuries is a stretch too far and doesn’t stand up to scrutiny.
Nevertheless, these villages do provide a glimpse into a bygone era, with each one exuding its own unique charm and character.
From Colmar we set out along the wine route and on this occasion chose three of the many villages to visit. We travelled with the Kutzig bus service, which allows you to hop on and hop off as many times as you like during the course of a day.
Ribeauvillé is one of the oldest medieval towns in Alsace. It is an attractive town with around 5000 inhabitants, which has combined its historical heritage with some modernity. The town and neighbouring hills are dominated by the majestic ruins of the Three Castles of the Lords of Ribeaupierre. The Grand-Rue (main street) and its picturesque neighbouring streets, lined with 15th to 18th-century buildings (draped with flowers in season), are scattered with Renaissance fountain-decorated squares.
Many buildings are worth a visit, including the Town Hall with its prestigious collection of silver drinking-cups, the Butchers’ Tower (13th century), the former Corn Exchange and the House of the Fiddlers. There is a tourist train and free guided tours of the old town and Town Hall are organised daily, except Mondays and Saturdays, from May to October.
The vineyards, which have been in existence since the Middle Ages, enable many winegrowers as well as the wine cooperative to offer visits to their cellars for tastings, in particular of the three Grands Crus, Geisberg, Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé and Osterberg.
One of the quintessential stops along the Colmar wine route is the village of Eguisheim, often hailed as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Encircled by vineyards that produce some of Alsace’s finest wines, Eguisheim is renowned for its concentric streets lined with colourful houses adorned with blooming flowers.
Visitors can wander through the narrow alleyways of the old town, admiring the medieval architecture and stopping to sample local delicacies such as tarte flambée and riesling wine.
Continuing along the wine route, travellers will encounter Riquewihr (below), another gem of Alsace that seems straight out of a fairytale. Enclosed within ancient ramparts, Riquewihr boasts a well-preserved medieval charm, with its cobblestone streets flanked by half-timbered houses dating back to the 16th century. The village is also famous for its Christmas markets, where the air is filled with the aroma of mulled wine and gingerbread, creating a truly magical atmosphere.
There are many more villages along the 170-kilometre wine route and travellers should do their own research to determine which ones they should visit, but Kaysersberg should certainly be added to the three above.
One of the defining features of the villages along the Alsatian wine route is their rich culinary heritage. The Alsace region is renowned for its hearty cuisine, which reflects its Franco-Germanic heritage. Visitors can indulge in traditional dishes such as choucroute garnie (sauerkraut with sausages and cured meats), baeckeoffe (a slow-cooked stew of meat, potatoes, and vegetables), and flammekueche (a thin crust pizza topped with crème fraîche, onions, and lardons).
Of course, no meal in Alsace would be complete without a glass of local wine. The Alsace region is famous for its white wines, particularly riesling, gewürztraminer, and pinot gris, which thrive in the region’s cool climate and mineral-rich soils. Visitors can sample these wines at local wineries in each of the villages.
In addition to its culinary delights, the Alsace region is also known for its rich cultural heritage. Throughout the year, the villages along the wine route host a variety of festivals and events, celebrating everything from wine and gastronomy to music and folklore. Highlights include the Alsace Wine Fair in Colmar, where visitors can taste wines from over 300 producers, and the Alsatian Christmas Market in Strasbourg, one of the oldest and most famous Christmas markets in Europe.
Photos © Judy Barford
