Gumbo was visiting a beautiful region on Alberta’s plains — Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park. Congratulations to George G, PortMoresby and GarryRF who solved this week’s puzzle.
Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park lies in the Milk River valley of the province’s prairie grasslands ecosystem and has characteristic “Badlands” erosion. It is situated in southern Alberta, just north of the Montana border.
This place is sacred to the Blackfoot native population as the Park contains the largest concentration of petroglyphs (rock carvings) and pictographs (rock paintings) on the North American plains. It is believed this site was a place where the ancestors of the Blackfoot people gathered to socialize and tell stories.
I visited this park several years ago. It’s in a fairly remote place, about a half day’s drive from the city of Calgary and an hour and a half from Lethbridge. I visited on a rainy, windy June day that was quite cold. Yet somehow the weather added to my appreciation of the landscape, which was also harsh but beautiful.
I completed two short hikes that day, one to see some of the petroglyphs (Battlescene trail) and the other a longer hike through the Milk River valley, the Hoodoo trail (well named as there are hundreds of hoodoos along the way). The Battlescene trail leads you downhill through hoodoos to a large flat-surface rock on which are carved rather crude scenes of a battle. The entire pictograph is covered with a thickened hardened plastic to prevent vandalism. Here are some of the views of this writing on stone….
….and a few petroglyphs I encountered from elsewhere in the park, although one appears to be old graffiti likely over a century old.
The Hoodoos trail was to me more interesting than the Battlescene trail because it takes you through the beautiful scenery of the park. Most of the images in this post were taken on this hike as it winds along the Milk River. Of interest, the Milk River is the only river in Alberta that flows south into the Mississippi basin (the rest flow north to Hudson Bay).
The rock and land formations of Writing-on-Stone are the result of millions of years of erosion, forming the characteristic hoodoos and coulees you find here. The landscape is home to a large variety of creatures, but the environment is fragile. The species who dwell here have adapted to the semi-arid climate wherein water is scarce and rain unpredictable, and in which winters can be long and cold. Water flowing year-round in the river makes this an important refuge for all types of animals. Some species like mule deer, coyote, prairie rattlesnake and bullsnake are found in all here. Efforts to preserve the prairie rattlesnake are especially noticeable, given how rare rattlesnakes are in the province.
Natives have likely inhabited the region for almost ten thousand years. Archaeologic studies have found evidence of teepee rings, cairns, bison jump deposits below cliffs, and buried campsites. The majority of archaeological evidence here dates from the past two millennia. Small Indian groups migrated through the park to hunt bison, gather berries and roots, seek shelter, and have social gatherings among tribes.
European settlers did not enter the scene until about 150 years ago. The remnants of a North-West Mounted Police office is situated within the park, and the surrounding prairies have been used for generations for ranching and grain farming. The local agricultural community lobbied for the formation of Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park, which came to fruition in 1957.
A good place to start your visit is with a stop at the Park’s nice Visitor Center. The park has excellent interpretative exhibits, including geologic history, a history of the Blackfoot people and white settlers who came to the region, and of course the petroglyphs. These are actually quite simple art, but many of the may be quite old — difficult to accurately date — and only a few are easily found. Guided walks are available with park staff, but because of the rain this guided walk was canceled the day I visited.
Here are some scenes from the Visitor Center’s exhibits….
And a few more of the several hundred photos I snapped during my exploration of Writing-on-Stone Park.
And some of the wildflowers and plants in the park…
Finally a trail winding its way across the wide expanse of the park’s grasslands.
Welcome to Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park / ÃÃsÃnai’pi National Historic Site, Where Histories, Stories and Dreams Become One. Set in the prairie grasslands of southern Alberta, Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is a sacred landscape. The spectacular Milk River valley contains the largest concentration of First Nation petroglyphs (rock carvings) and pictographs (rock paintings) on the great plains of North America.
The environment of Writing-On-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is extremely fragile. Please stay on trails at all times to prevent soil erosion and damage to plants and landforms. Do not deface rock art or landforms. Damaging any cultural resource, including rock art, may result in a $50,000 fine and a one-year jail sentence. If you see artifacts, please leave them in place and contact park staff.
The unusual landforms of Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi resulted from the dynamic interaction of geology, climate and time. The sedimentary rocks exposed in the Milk River valley were formed 85 million years ago at the edge of a great inland sea. Â Huge volumes of meltwater began eroding the soft sandstone after the last ice age. Â This is how the coulees and hoodoos you see today were formed. Â The unique habitat created is suitable to many diverse species not typically found in surrounding areas.
In Blackfoot traditions, the world around us is the work of Náápi who gained his powers from the Creator. Náápi did a wonderful job making the land. Special places like Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi are here for a reason. This is where significant things happened to the ancestors of the Blackfoot.  This is where the ancient stories took place.
Prairie settlement has taken place on the lands surrounding Writing-on-Stone over the past 150 years. Today, a rural community sustained by ranching and farming exists. Many local families have close connections to the early settlers of the area, including the North-West Mounted Police. The local community was instrumental in the formation of Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park in 1957. Close working relationships between the park and community members are key to the long term protection of Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi.
Ecology
A natural region is a landscape that contains similar landforms, climates, soils, plants and wildlife.  Alberta has six Natural Regions – Boreal Forest, Canadian Shield, Foothills, Grassland, Parkland and Rocky Mountains. Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is located in the Grassland Natural Region.
Alberta’s grasslands are part of the Great Plains stretching from Canada’s prairie provinces to the Gulf of Mexico. The grasslands are flat to gently rolling with a few larger hills. Many unique plant and animal species inhabit the grasslands.
Invasive species are one of the greatest threats to natural biodiversity in Alberta’s parks. They degrade habitats and endanger native species and plant communities. Â Non-native or “alien” plants reduce recreational opportunities and are costly to manage. Preventing and controlling these unwanted plants is important to ensure Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi remains healthy and protected.
Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi protects some of the most diverse natural landscapes and habitats in the mixed grasslands region of North America.
The species here have adapted to a semi-arid climate where water is scarce and rain is unpredictable. Water flowing year-round in the river and creeks makes this an important refuge in the dry plains.
The varied terrain of the Milk River valley creates environmental conditions and microclimates that support four distinct habitats
- Moist riparian (riverside and coulee bottom)
- Dry, open sage flats
- Exposed and rocky outcrops/hoodoos
- Flat, windy grasslands
Each habitat supports a unique animal and plant community. Â Some species like mule deer, coyote, prairie rattlesnake and bullsnake are found in all the habitats.
Geology
During the Cretaceous Period, Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi lay at the western edge of the Pakowki Sea. Mud, sand and clay were deposited as this inland sea slowly retreated. Â Over millions of years, these sediments were buried, compressed and hardened into the sedimentary rocks of the Milk River Formation.
During the Wisconsin glaciation (approximately 70,000 to 10,000 years ago), Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi lay deep beneath the Laurentide ice sheet. The ice sheet began to melt some 20,000 years ago, retreating to the northeast. Large lakes formed along the southern margins of the ice sheet. Â These are known as proglacial or ice margin lakes.
The ice acted as a dam, forcing a huge volume of water to drain south from the proglacial lake. This created deep meltwater channels – the prairie coulees we see today. The meltwater also eroded the ancestral Milk River valley.
Today, the Milk River is the only river in Alberta that flows south into the Mississippi basin.
Wildlife
The range of species found at Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is greater than most other places on the Alberta prairies. A unique combination of geographical factors contributes to the biodiversity here
- The proximity of the Sweetgrass Hills
- Some montane species live here, including yellow-bellied marmots and bushy-tailed wood rats. In the past, bighorn sheep may even have traversed the valley.
- The Milk River valley’s connection to the Missouri River basin
- Some species more typical of the Mississippian Basin are found here. Â These include raccoons, the stonecat (a type of catfish) and Weidemeyer’s admiral butterfly.
- The influence of the Great Plains
- Many Great Plains species are at the northern limits of their range at Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi. Â Examples include the yellow-breasted chat, two-tailed swallowtail butterfly and plains spadefoot toad.
A high concentration of Species at Risk in Alberta are protected at Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi. These include northern leopard frog, ferruginous hawk, loggerhead shrike, Sprague’s pipit, long-billed curlew, St. Mary shorthead sculpin, brassy minnow, and western silvery minnow.
Prairie rattlesnakes are found in the park. Read about the watchable wildlife here.
Please do not pick flowers, grasses or other vegetation.
Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is home to many beings that have always been important to the Blackfoot.
- KsÃsskstaki (beaver), the source of the powerful Beaver Bundle, swims in PoyÃÃtahtai (the Milk River).
- Otsskoisisttsi (mountain bluebird) received its power from Thunder.  It lives among the hoodoos and makes pictures on the rocks.
- Mi’ksinÃttsiim (buffaloberry) grows along the creeks and riverbanks.
- Saokiawakaasi (pronghorn) speeds across the prairies.
Other beings that once lived at here like makóyi (wolf) and iinÃÃski (bison) may yet return.
Other Blackfoot words are included in the Blackfoot glossary.
Archaeology
According to First Nation oral traditions, people have camped along the Milk River for thousands of years. This is supported by the archaeological evidence.
Since the 1960s, most of Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi has been surveyed for archaeological sites.  A number of sites have been excavated. More than eighty archaeological sites have been identified
- Tipi rings and cairns (small piles of stone) on coulee edges
- Small bison jump deposits below cliffs
- Buried campsites in the valley and coulee bottoms
Archaeological studies from the prairies around Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi show that people have lived here for at least 10,000 years. The earliest archaeological evidence from Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi itself is 3,500 to 4,500 years old. The majority of archaeological evidence here dates from 1,750 years ago until the recent past.
Archaeological artifacts reveal information about Blackfoot history, relationships with neighbours and development of new ways of life.
Recent research projects at Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi include
- Rock art recording and conservation
- Paleontology research
- Plant community studies
- Species at Risk population inventories
Nitawahsin – Land of the Blackfoot People
Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is found in the centre of Nitawahsin – known as original land. For more Blackfoot terms, please refer to the Blackfoot glossary.
The Blackfoot People (or NiitsÃtapi) inhabit Nitawahsin. The three Blackfoot tribes are the
- Kainai (Blood)
- Piikáni (Peigan), including the Aapátohsipikáni in southern Alberta and the Aamsskáápipikani in Montana
- Siksika (Northern Blackfoot)
People from many other First Nations have visited Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi but the Blackfoot know this place best.
Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi was an important destination on the Blackfoot seasonal round – the annual movement of people across the land. Â The Blackfoot were intimately familiar with the land and the seasons. Small groups frequently moved their camps to
- Find and hunt bison
- Gather berries and roots
- Cut wooden poles for tipis and travois
- Seek shelter from winter winds
- Gather to socialize and hold ceremonies at certain times of the year
The Blackfoot often camped along the Milk River. Wood, water and shelter were found in the deep coulees. Â Game and berries were plentiful.
Â
Limited facilities at the park and nearby (camping mostly). Â Nearest facilities in the town of Milk River. Â Lethbridge 1.5 hours drive away is nearest largest base. Â Park has a store and a visitor center.
Â
Hiking: Â Hoodoo trail (2.2 km)
Battlescene trail (0.5 km)
Welcome to Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park / ÃÃsÃnai’pi National Historic Site, Where Histories, Stories and Dreams Become One. Set in the prairie grasslands of southern Alberta, Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is a sacred landscape. The spectacular Milk River valley contains the largest concentration of First Nation petroglyphs (rock carvings) and pictographs (rock paintings) on the great plains of North America.
The environment of Writing-On-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is extremely fragile. Please stay on trails at all times to prevent soil erosion and damage to plants and landforms. Do not deface rock art or landforms. Damaging any cultural resource, including rock art, may result in a $50,000 fine and a one-year jail sentence. If you see artifacts, please leave them in place and contact park staff.
The unusual landforms of Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi resulted from the dynamic interaction of geology, climate and time. The sedimentary rocks exposed in the Milk River valley were formed 85 million years ago at the edge of a great inland sea. Â Huge volumes of meltwater began eroding the soft sandstone after the last ice age. Â This is how the coulees and hoodoos you see today were formed. Â The unique habitat created is suitable to many diverse species not typically found in surrounding areas.
In Blackfoot traditions, the world around us is the work of Náápi who gained his powers from the Creator. Náápi did a wonderful job making the land. Special places like Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi are here for a reason. This is where significant things happened to the ancestors of the Blackfoot.  This is where the ancient stories took place.
Prairie settlement has taken place on the lands surrounding Writing-on-Stone over the past 150 years. Today, a rural community sustained by ranching and farming exists. Many local families have close connections to the early settlers of the area, including the North-West Mounted Police. The local community was instrumental in the formation of Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park in 1957. Close working relationships between the park and community members are key to the long term protection of Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi.
Ecology
A natural region is a landscape that contains similar landforms, climates, soils, plants and wildlife.  Alberta has six Natural Regions – Boreal Forest, Canadian Shield, Foothills, Grassland, Parkland and Rocky Mountains. Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is located in the Grassland Natural Region.
Alberta’s grasslands are part of the Great Plains stretching from Canada’s prairie provinces to the Gulf of Mexico. The grasslands are flat to gently rolling with a few larger hills. Many unique plant and animal species inhabit the grasslands.
Invasive species are one of the greatest threats to natural biodiversity in Alberta’s parks. They degrade habitats and endanger native species and plant communities. Â Non-native or “alien” plants reduce recreational opportunities and are costly to manage. Preventing and controlling these unwanted plants is important to ensure Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi remains healthy and protected.
Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi protects some of the most diverse natural landscapes and habitats in the mixed grasslands region of North America.
The species here have adapted to a semi-arid climate where water is scarce and rain is unpredictable. Water flowing year-round in the river and creeks makes this an important refuge in the dry plains.
The varied terrain of the Milk River valley creates environmental conditions and microclimates that support four distinct habitats
- Moist riparian (riverside and coulee bottom)
- Dry, open sage flats
- Exposed and rocky outcrops/hoodoos
- Flat, windy grasslands
Each habitat supports a unique animal and plant community. Â Some species like mule deer, coyote, prairie rattlesnake and bullsnake are found in all the habitats.
Geology
During the Cretaceous Period, Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi lay at the western edge of the Pakowki Sea. Mud, sand and clay were deposited as this inland sea slowly retreated. Â Over millions of years, these sediments were buried, compressed and hardened into the sedimentary rocks of the Milk River Formation.
During the Wisconsin glaciation (approximately 70,000 to 10,000 years ago), Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi lay deep beneath the Laurentide ice sheet. The ice sheet began to melt some 20,000 years ago, retreating to the northeast. Large lakes formed along the southern margins of the ice sheet. Â These are known as proglacial or ice margin lakes.
The ice acted as a dam, forcing a huge volume of water to drain south from the proglacial lake. This created deep meltwater channels – the prairie coulees we see today. The meltwater also eroded the ancestral Milk River valley.
Today, the Milk River is the only river in Alberta that flows south into the Mississippi basin.
Wildlife
The range of species found at Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is greater than most other places on the Alberta prairies. A unique combination of geographical factors contributes to the biodiversity here
- The proximity of the Sweetgrass Hills
- Some montane species live here, including yellow-bellied marmots and bushy-tailed wood rats. In the past, bighorn sheep may even have traversed the valley.
- The Milk River valley’s connection to the Missouri River basin
- Some species more typical of the Mississippian Basin are found here. Â These include raccoons, the stonecat (a type of catfish) and Weidemeyer’s admiral butterfly.
- The influence of the Great Plains
- Many Great Plains species are at the northern limits of their range at Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi. Â Examples include the yellow-breasted chat, two-tailed swallowtail butterfly and plains spadefoot toad.
A high concentration of Species at Risk in Alberta are protected at Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi. These include northern leopard frog, ferruginous hawk, loggerhead shrike, Sprague’s pipit, long-billed curlew, St. Mary shorthead sculpin, brassy minnow, and western silvery minnow.
Prairie rattlesnakes are found in the park. Read about the watchable wildlife here.
Please do not pick flowers, grasses or other vegetation.
Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is home to many beings that have always been important to the Blackfoot.
- KsÃsskstaki (beaver), the source of the powerful Beaver Bundle, swims in PoyÃÃtahtai (the Milk River).
- Otsskoisisttsi (mountain bluebird) received its power from Thunder.  It lives among the hoodoos and makes pictures on the rocks.
- Mi’ksinÃttsiim (buffaloberry) grows along the creeks and riverbanks.
- Saokiawakaasi (pronghorn) speeds across the prairies.
Other beings that once lived at here like makóyi (wolf) and iinÃÃski (bison) may yet return.
Other Blackfoot words are included in the Blackfoot glossary.
Archaeology
According to First Nation oral traditions, people have camped along the Milk River for thousands of years. This is supported by the archaeological evidence.
Since the 1960s, most of Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi has been surveyed for archaeological sites.  A number of sites have been excavated. More than eighty archaeological sites have been identified
- Tipi rings and cairns (small piles of stone) on coulee edges
- Small bison jump deposits below cliffs
- Buried campsites in the valley and coulee bottoms
Archaeological studies from the prairies around Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi show that people have lived here for at least 10,000 years. The earliest archaeological evidence from Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi itself is 3,500 to 4,500 years old. The majority of archaeological evidence here dates from 1,750 years ago until the recent past.
Archaeological artifacts reveal information about Blackfoot history, relationships with neighbours and development of new ways of life.
Recent research projects at Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi include
- Rock art recording and conservation
- Paleontology research
- Plant community studies
- Species at Risk population inventories
Nitawahsin – Land of the Blackfoot People
Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is found in the centre of Nitawahsin – known as original land. For more Blackfoot terms, please refer to the Blackfoot glossary.
The Blackfoot People (or NiitsÃtapi) inhabit Nitawahsin. The three Blackfoot tribes are the
- Kainai (Blood)
- Piikáni (Peigan), including the Aapátohsipikáni in southern Alberta and the Aamsskáápipikani in Montana
- Siksika (Northern Blackfoot)
People from many other First Nations have visited Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi but the Blackfoot know this place best.
Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi was an important destination on the Blackfoot seasonal round – the annual movement of people across the land. Â The Blackfoot were intimately familiar with the land and the seasons. Small groups frequently moved their camps to
- Find and hunt bison
- Gather berries and roots
- Cut wooden poles for tipis and travois
- Seek shelter from winter winds
- Gather to socialize and hold ceremonies at certain times of the year
The Blackfoot often camped along the Milk River. Wood, water and shelter were found in the deep coulees. Â Game and berries were plentiful.
Â
Limited facilities at the park and nearby (camping mostly). Â Nearest facilities in the town of Milk River. Â Lethbridge 1.5 hours drive away is nearest largest base. Â Park has a store and a visitor center.
Â
Hiking: Â Hoodoo trail (2.2 km)
Battlescene trail (0.5 km)
Welcome to Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park / ÃÃsÃnai’pi National Historic Site, Where Histories, Stories and Dreams Become One. Set in the prairie grasslands of southern Alberta, Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is a sacred landscape. The spectacular Milk River valley contains the largest concentration of First Nation petroglyphs (rock carvings) and pictographs (rock paintings) on the great plains of North America.
The environment of Writing-On-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is extremely fragile. Please stay on trails at all times to prevent soil erosion and damage to plants and landforms. Do not deface rock art or landforms. Damaging any cultural resource, including rock art, may result in a $50,000 fine and a one-year jail sentence. If you see artifacts, please leave them in place and contact park staff.
The unusual landforms of Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi resulted from the dynamic interaction of geology, climate and time. The sedimentary rocks exposed in the Milk River valley were formed 85 million years ago at the edge of a great inland sea. Â Huge volumes of meltwater began eroding the soft sandstone after the last ice age. Â This is how the coulees and hoodoos you see today were formed. Â The unique habitat created is suitable to many diverse species not typically found in surrounding areas.
In Blackfoot traditions, the world around us is the work of Náápi who gained his powers from the Creator. Náápi did a wonderful job making the land. Special places like Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi are here for a reason. This is where significant things happened to the ancestors of the Blackfoot.  This is where the ancient stories took place.
Prairie settlement has taken place on the lands surrounding Writing-on-Stone over the past 150 years. Today, a rural community sustained by ranching and farming exists. Many local families have close connections to the early settlers of the area, including the North-West Mounted Police. The local community was instrumental in the formation of Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park in 1957. Close working relationships between the park and community members are key to the long term protection of Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi.
Ecology
A natural region is a landscape that contains similar landforms, climates, soils, plants and wildlife.  Alberta has six Natural Regions – Boreal Forest, Canadian Shield, Foothills, Grassland, Parkland and Rocky Mountains. Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is located in the Grassland Natural Region.
Alberta’s grasslands are part of the Great Plains stretching from Canada’s prairie provinces to the Gulf of Mexico. The grasslands are flat to gently rolling with a few larger hills. Many unique plant and animal species inhabit the grasslands.
Invasive species are one of the greatest threats to natural biodiversity in Alberta’s parks. They degrade habitats and endanger native species and plant communities. Â Non-native or “alien” plants reduce recreational opportunities and are costly to manage. Preventing and controlling these unwanted plants is important to ensure Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi remains healthy and protected.
Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi protects some of the most diverse natural landscapes and habitats in the mixed grasslands region of North America.
The species here have adapted to a semi-arid climate where water is scarce and rain is unpredictable. Water flowing year-round in the river and creeks makes this an important refuge in the dry plains.
The varied terrain of the Milk River valley creates environmental conditions and microclimates that support four distinct habitats
- Moist riparian (riverside and coulee bottom)
- Dry, open sage flats
- Exposed and rocky outcrops/hoodoos
- Flat, windy grasslands
Each habitat supports a unique animal and plant community. Â Some species like mule deer, coyote, prairie rattlesnake and bullsnake are found in all the habitats.
Geology
During the Cretaceous Period, Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi lay at the western edge of the Pakowki Sea. Mud, sand and clay were deposited as this inland sea slowly retreated. Â Over millions of years, these sediments were buried, compressed and hardened into the sedimentary rocks of the Milk River Formation.
During the Wisconsin glaciation (approximately 70,000 to 10,000 years ago), Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi lay deep beneath the Laurentide ice sheet. The ice sheet began to melt some 20,000 years ago, retreating to the northeast. Large lakes formed along the southern margins of the ice sheet. Â These are known as proglacial or ice margin lakes.
The ice acted as a dam, forcing a huge volume of water to drain south from the proglacial lake. This created deep meltwater channels – the prairie coulees we see today. The meltwater also eroded the ancestral Milk River valley.
Today, the Milk River is the only river in Alberta that flows south into the Mississippi basin.
Wildlife
The range of species found at Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is greater than most other places on the Alberta prairies. A unique combination of geographical factors contributes to the biodiversity here
- The proximity of the Sweetgrass Hills
- Some montane species live here, including yellow-bellied marmots and bushy-tailed wood rats. In the past, bighorn sheep may even have traversed the valley.
- The Milk River valley’s connection to the Missouri River basin
- Some species more typical of the Mississippian Basin are found here. Â These include raccoons, the stonecat (a type of catfish) and Weidemeyer’s admiral butterfly.
- The influence of the Great Plains
- Many Great Plains species are at the northern limits of their range at Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi. Â Examples include the yellow-breasted chat, two-tailed swallowtail butterfly and plains spadefoot toad.
A high concentration of Species at Risk in Alberta are protected at Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi. These include northern leopard frog, ferruginous hawk, loggerhead shrike, Sprague’s pipit, long-billed curlew, St. Mary shorthead sculpin, brassy minnow, and western silvery minnow.
Prairie rattlesnakes are found in the park. Read about the watchable wildlife here.
Please do not pick flowers, grasses or other vegetation.
Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is home to many beings that have always been important to the Blackfoot.
- KsÃsskstaki (beaver), the source of the powerful Beaver Bundle, swims in PoyÃÃtahtai (the Milk River).
- Otsskoisisttsi (mountain bluebird) received its power from Thunder.  It lives among the hoodoos and makes pictures on the rocks.
- Mi’ksinÃttsiim (buffaloberry) grows along the creeks and riverbanks.
- Saokiawakaasi (pronghorn) speeds across the prairies.
Other beings that once lived at here like makóyi (wolf) and iinÃÃski (bison) may yet return.
Other Blackfoot words are included in the Blackfoot glossary.
Archaeology
According to First Nation oral traditions, people have camped along the Milk River for thousands of years. This is supported by the archaeological evidence.
Since the 1960s, most of Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi has been surveyed for archaeological sites.  A number of sites have been excavated. More than eighty archaeological sites have been identified
- Tipi rings and cairns (small piles of stone) on coulee edges
- Small bison jump deposits below cliffs
- Buried campsites in the valley and coulee bottoms
Archaeological studies from the prairies around Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi show that people have lived here for at least 10,000 years. The earliest archaeological evidence from Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi itself is 3,500 to 4,500 years old. The majority of archaeological evidence here dates from 1,750 years ago until the recent past.
Archaeological artifacts reveal information about Blackfoot history, relationships with neighbours and development of new ways of life.
Recent research projects at Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi include
- Rock art recording and conservation
- Paleontology research
- Plant community studies
- Species at Risk population inventories
Nitawahsin – Land of the Blackfoot People
Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi is found in the centre of Nitawahsin – known as original land. For more Blackfoot terms, please refer to the Blackfoot glossary.
The Blackfoot People (or NiitsÃtapi) inhabit Nitawahsin. The three Blackfoot tribes are the
- Kainai (Blood)
- Piikáni (Peigan), including the Aapátohsipikáni in southern Alberta and the Aamsskáápipikani in Montana
- Siksika (Northern Blackfoot)
People from many other First Nations have visited Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi but the Blackfoot know this place best.
Writing-on-Stone / ÃÃsÃnai’pi was an important destination on the Blackfoot seasonal round – the annual movement of people across the land. Â The Blackfoot were intimately familiar with the land and the seasons. Small groups frequently moved their camps to
- Find and hunt bison
- Gather berries and roots
- Cut wooden poles for tipis and travois
- Seek shelter from winter winds
- Gather to socialize and hold ceremonies at certain times of the year
The Blackfoot often camped along the Milk River. Wood, water and shelter were found in the deep coulees. Â Game and berries were plentiful.
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Limited facilities at the park and nearby (camping mostly). Â Nearest facilities in the town of Milk River. Â Lethbridge 1.5 hours drive away is nearest largest base. Â Park has a store and a visitor center.
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Hiking: Â Hoodoo trail (2.2 km)
Battlescene trail (0.5 km)
