We've all heard the stories about Ryanair's fees, attitudes, threats to charge for the lav, etc., and it left us a little concerned while planning our first Ryanair flight from Rome to Nürnberg—despite all the reassurances we've heard from GarryRF.
So, I'm pleased to say, more than fine.
I paid in advance for a 15kg checked bag; when I realized on the way from the U.S. that our suitcase was a bit over that, I was able to contact them online and easily change it to 20kg for 4€.
I was also pleased that Ryanair seems to have most of its airports covered with cheap ground transportation; Rome Termini to Ciampino Airport for 5€ without having to figure what went where (although the instructions said the pickup was 'directly' at Termini, but was actually a block down the road).
And, while there were lots of people headed to lots of places, I thought the Ryanair staff did a better job of getting us queued and loaded than many of my experiences with U.S. mainline carriers.
So...while it may not be everyone's cup of tea...it was not bad at all!